•A 



^ 




Class. __^ 

Bonk ' C / 8- 



SMITHSONIAN DEPOSIT 



Compliments of 



B, M, LELDNG 



Secretary California State Board of Horticulture. 
Please acktwrvledge receipt. 



TREATISE ON CITRUS CULTURE BY B. M. LELONG.— Plate No. 1. 




61LE5 LITHaAUBERTV PRiramC Cd.t 



WASH]^JGTON NAVEL. 



6)34 



A TRKATISE 



CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA, 



A Description of tlie Best Varieties grown in the State, and Varieties grown in 

other States and Foreign Countries; Gathering, Packing, 

Curing, Pruning, Budding, Diseases, Etc. 



By B. M. LELONG, 

Secretary of the State Board of Horticulture of the State of California. 

SLP 13 ibbB 





Know'st thou the land wliere the leniou trees bloom, 
Where the gold orange glows in the deep thicket's gloom, 
Where a wind ever soft from the blue heavens blows. 
And the groves are of miro and nikau and rose? California. 



SACRAMENTO: 

STATE OFFICE, :. : : : J. D. YOUNG, SUPT. STATE PRINTING. 
1888. 







15 SEP 1905 
D. ot D, 



To the Jwnorable tJie Officers and the Members of the State 
Board of Horticiilture: 

Gentlemen: This little "Treatise" is by permission most 
respectfully submitted for your kind consideration and ap- 
proval. 

I have used every effort within my power to have the same 
in the hands of the Printer, but owing to the immense increase 
of business of this Department, to which I must devote the 
most of my time, and having had no assistance, it has been 
delayed until now. 

The inquiry for information on this subject has by far ex- 
ceeded my power to give by letter, and I sincerely hope that 
this little work will now supply the long felt want. 
Very respectfully submitted. 

B. M. LELONG, 

Secretary. 
Approved: 

ELLWOOD COOPER, 

President. 

San Francisco, April 9, 1888. 




OFFICERS AND MEMBERS OF THE BOARD. 



Hon. ELLWOOD COOPER, President Santa Barbara, 

Commissioner for the Los Angeles District. 

Rev. N. R. PECK, Vice-President Penryn, 

Commissioner for the El Dorado District. 

Gen. M. G. VALLEJO, Treasurer Sonoma, 

Commissioner for the Sonoma District. 

Dr. EDWIN KIMBALL, Auditor Haywards, 

Commissioner for the State at Large. 

A. SCOTT CHAPMAN San Gabriel, 

Commissioner for the State at Large. 

SOL. RUNYON Courtland, 

Commissioner for the Sacramento District. 

W. M. BOGGS Napa City, 

Commissioner for the Napa District. 

W. C. WEST Fresno, 

Commissioner for the San Joaquin District. 

ABRAM BLOCK Santa Clara, 

Commissioner for the San Francisco District. 

B. M. LELONG, Secretary. 

W. G. KLEE, Inspector of Fruit Pests Berkeley. 

Office of the Board: 
No. 220 Sutter Street, San Francisco. 




TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PART I— ORANGE, THE: 

Class A — Best foreign varieties 13 

Class B — Foreign varieties, recommended for trial 20 

Class C — Foreign varieties tried, and not recommended 22 

Class D — Best Japanese varieties 25 

Class E — ^Japanese varieties continued 27 

Class F — Ornamental varieties of Japanese and Chinese origin 34 

Class G — Best varieties of California origin 36 

Class H — Varieties of California origin not recommended 39 

Class I — Miscellaneous varieties, grown in foreign countries, and in 

Florida ... ■. 40 

Gathering, curing, and shipping the orange crop 45 

Propagation 4^ 

Planting systems 48 

Extending the roots in ]5lanting 60 

Pruning 61 

Gum disease, cause of, and remedy for 64 

Bolting split limbs 66 

Fertilization 66 

Uses to which oranges may be put 68 

PART II— LEMON, THE: 

Class A — Best foreign vaiueties to plant 73 

Class B — Best varieties to plant of California origin 75 

Class C — Miscellaneous varieties 76 

Class D — Varieties grown in foreign countries and in Florida 78 

Grown from seed 81 

Curing, packing, etc 83 

Buddine 86 



^ CONTENTS. 

PART III— LIME, THE: 

Culture of . . 

90 

Varieties Grown Elsewhere 

PART IV— CITRON, THE: 

Culture of . . 

94 

How to I'repare . . . 

94 

Books Recommended 

95 

Conclusion 

96 




INTRODUCTORY, 



I desire to acknowledge my inability to do the subject of 
"Citrus Culture" full justice, owing to the very limited time 
at my command in its preparation ; but enough is written, 
which is of practical experience, to aid those who are em- 
barking in the business, and the many who have sought the 
information from this Department. 

In the preparation of this little work I have been over- 
cautious not to put into print too much reading matter, so 
that the reader will not have to spend hours in reading before 
he discovers what he desires to learn. 

I have, since boyhood, exercised great love for the culture 
of citrus fruits, especially the Orange and the Lemon, having 
been brought up among them. 

My father (a pioneer, and member of Colonel Stevenson's 
regiment) was among the first to propagate citrus trees in the 
early days of California history. 

I have, ever since these events, when there were but few 
Citrus Orchards in the State, watched the progress Citrus 
Culture has made. Since then we have heard the doctrine of 
overproduction propounded, and as the years have slowly 
rolled by, the many thousands of acres of trees which have 
since then been planted have come into bearing, the demand 
increasing as fast as the production, and there is no industry 
in this State having a more promising future, and it is bound 
to become one of the greatest of all industries of our great 
State. 

When we compare Citrus Culture in this State with other 
countries, with what they must do to raise a crop, the many 
diseases they have to contend against, and having all these 



8 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

disadvantages they make Citrus Culture pay, then we look to 
California's immense capabilities, where the trees bear unpro- 
tected and without care the year round, where diseases among 
them are but little known, and how remunerative they are to 
the owner, then we glance back to those who have preached 
overproduction, who have spent their lives with their faces 
turned back, lamenting the good old days. 

We may safely say that in this State Citrus Culture is yet 
in its infancy, and look hopefully to its promising future. 
Only in the past few years did we know what were the best 
varieties to grow, such as would be profitable, and \vould bear 
transportation, manner of packing, curing, etc., but through 
energy, persistency, and hard work we have accomplished that 
end, and to the world we have made known the quality of our 
fruits, which cannot be surpassed. The awarding of GOLD 
Medals to California at the "New Orleans World's Fair" 
for the best twenty varieties against the World, is conclusive 
evidence of this fact. 

Mr. L. M. Holt, of Riverside, in his essay on "The Future 
of Citrus Culture in California," read before the Ninth Fruit 
Growers' Convention, said : 

The cultivation of the orange in favorable localities, is probably the most profit- 
able business to which an acre of ground can be devoted for horticultural and agri- 
cultural purposes. It takes time to develop an orange grove, and this fact taken in 
connection with the fear of overproduction, keeps the masses from going into the 
industry, and hence, the time when overproduction will come, if ever, is jnished 
far into the future. 

The question of raising a superior orange in California is now settled. This State 
not only raises a superior orange, an orange that is king among oranges, but that 
fact is recognized by the markets of the United States, and there is no probability 
that the present century will see enough oranges produced in California to supply 
the spring markets of the Atlantic States. The Mediterranean oranges are being 
practically driven from the market, while the Florida orange cuts no figure, as it is 
not a competitor. The California crop comes upon the market in the sprints when 
the system demands an acid fruit, and at a time when there is practically no other 
fruit in the market with which it is brought into competition. 

The time is coming when train loads of oranges from California will be sliipped 
across the Rocky Mountains, where now only carloads are sent. It is only about 
three years since oranges were first successfully shipped from Southern California to 
Chicago. It was then an experiment; a market had to be made in the Western 
States. It took time to make it, and yet the market has extended more rapidly 



INTRODUCTORY. 9 

than the bearing capacity of our orchards, and there has never been a time since the 
shipment of oranges on a large scale to the Western States commenced, when the 
demand for good oranges did not exceed the supply. And yet, the markets of the 
Northwest are only partially developed, and the East has not been touched at all. 

Dr. O. p. Chubb, of Orange, who two years ago was sent 
to the Eastern States, by the Orange Growers' Protective 
Union, of Southern CaHfornia, to estabhsh agencies, in his 
essay on the "Future Markets for CaHfornia Citrus Fruits," 
said : 

The rapidity with which California citrus fruits have, within the past five years, 
gained a foothold in eastern markets has greatly surprised not only Florida growers, 
but importers from the Mediterranean. That oranges, lemons, and limes were pro- 
duced on this coast, had, of course, long been known, but active competition in 
quantity throughout the States east of the Rockies was neither suspected nor feared. 

Florida, however, cannot be materially affected by the increasing importance of 
our trade, since her output is nearly or quite consumed before ours is sufficiently 
mature to take its place. The only point of contest at issue between these two 
sister States in the citrus trade seems to be one of quality and beauty, or, in other 
words, a matter of "points,"''' concerning which a committee expressed an opinion 
at New Orleans not long since. The Atlantic cities appreciate fine fruits, and in 
this respect there is an opening for our growers to meet Florida in her own chosen 
markets, and before her season closes. The lateness of California's main crop is 
her strong hold in those cities west of the Atlantic seaboard. This climatic advan- 
tage is an important one, and should be well considered in the selection of varieties 
for planting, since the later the shipments are made the better the prices obtained 
(at least, such has been the case in past seasons) up to the middle of July, when 
strawberries and other small summer fruits interfere. The great Northwest is, 
however, capable of absorbing our entire product at remunerative prices as early 
or late as it is in fair or fit condition to place. The States west of New York and 
Pennsylvania ai-e depending more and more ea,ch year on California for spring ship- 
ments of oranges, and the heavier consumption is steadily pushing westward. The 
people there are all interested in California and her fruit products, and will choose 
her oranges in preference to Mediterranean fruit of like quality and price. 

By intelligent propagation of imported varieties and stocks, aided by peculiar 
adaptation of climate, soil, and methods of cultivation, our horticulturists have 
developed new types of flavor, pulp, and peel, which western taste is not slow to 
recognize and appreciate. The Washington Navel stands to-day the peer of any 
orange known in the market, and is really the autocrat of the price list. Following 
this winner of gold medals and golden opinions come the luscious St. Michael, the 
sprightly Mediterranean Sweet, the handsome and characteristic Valencia, and late 
and various improved selections from the older orchards of seedlings, not to mention 
the average seedling, of a quality equal to anything grown on the coast or islands 
of the Mediterranean. 

All these varieties, as the product of California soil and climate, possess that 
happy combination of sugar and acid, of flavor and aroma, which not only pleases 
the palate but corrects the bile of the eastern consumer as he emerges from the 

2 



10 



CITRUS CULTURE TN CALIFORNIA. 



ruins of a supertonic winter into the malarious tendencies of a radical spring 
warmth mixed with the vagaries of an obstinate liver. 

And so he comes to recognize the California orange as not only the proper thing, 
but as coming in at the proper time, and he proceeds to put it where it will do the 
most good. It is a new and popular prescription from Nature's California labo- 
ratory, and he cries for it daily. The great and growing cities of the Mississippi 
Valley are learning to appreciate and consume increasing quantities of this class of 
fruits, filling the gap, as they do, between the ham fat of winter and the chicken 
broth and fresh vegetables of the heated term in July. This industry is yet in its 
infancy on this coast, and we may rest assured that the demand for choice fruit at 
high prices will always remain in advance of the supply. 

Professor Van Deman, Chief of Pomological Division, 
United States Department of Agriculture, in a recent letter, 
said : 

Having had frequent opportunities to test the oranges of every part of the United 
States, and those from Mexico, Jamaica, and the Mediterranean, I am glad to say 
that those of our own country are the best of those tested. We not only have 
imported the best varieties from nearly every part of the world, but our wide-awake 
fruit growers are producing new seedlings, some of which are equal to the best, and 
the tendency is constantly upwards. 




PART I 



VARIETIES, PROPAGATION, PLANTING, DISEASES, ETC. 



CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS. 

CITRUS AURANTIUM NOBILIS. 

CITRUS AURANTIUM BIGARADIUM. 

CITRUS AURANTIUM BERGAMIUM. 

CITRUS AURANTIUM DECUMANUM. 

CITRUS AURANTIUM INDICUM ITMO-CITRATUM FOLIO, ET 
FRUCTU MIXTO. 




ORANGE CULTURE. 



What is most important to the beginner is what varieties to 
plant. I have arranged them into classes, Foreign varieties and 
Native varieties, by themselves, those that are recommended 
to be propagated in one class, and those not recommended 
under another. A short description is given to illustrate their 
qualities. 

Also for the purpose of aiding those who may wish to experi- 
ment with varieties not yet introduced. A list of nearly every 
known variety is given, together with those that have already 
fruited in this State, with comments as to their value. The 
descriptions are short, but well serve the purpose. 




THE ORANGE. 




CHAPTER I. 

BEST VARIETIES TO PLANT. 



CLASS A. 

The varieties classified under this head are of foreign origin; 
their prominence is about in the order named. 

They are recommended as marketable and profitable varie- 
ties to grow. 

Washington Navel. (Bahia, Riverside Navel.) 

This orange is the most popular of all foreign varieties 
grown in this State. Fruit large, solid, and heavy (Plate i); 
skin, smooth, and of a very fine texture; very juicy; high fla- 
vored with melting pulp; is nearly seedless, only in excep- 
tional cases are seed found ; tree is a good and prolific bearer, 
medium thorny, a rapid grower, although it does not attain a 
very large size; bears when very young, commencing to bear 
as early as one year old from the bud. 

This variety was imported from Bahia, Brazil, in 1870, by 



14 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Mr. William Saunders, of the Department of Agriculture at 
Washington. There were twelve trees in this importation. It 
was sent out by the Department under the name of Ba/iia, but 
was changed to Washington Navel, to distinguish it from a 
variety introduced from Australia and grown to a limited ex- 
tent in California. 

Two of the first trees to bear, aside from the orange house 
of the Department, were at Riverside, and as the buds were 
taken from those trees it got the name of Riverside Navel. 

The late Mr. Wells (Wells, Fargo & Co.) spent the winter of 
1873-4 in San Diego, and in conversation with Alexander 
Craw, then foreman for J. M. Asher, nurseryman, San Diego, 
told him about the Bahia in glowing terms; Mr. Craw sug- 
gested that it would be a desirable variety to have in Cali- 
fornia. He said he would send for trees, and did so, but the 
trees above mentioned were the first to fruit. 

This variety is claimed to be a shy bearer in Florida and 
other States, but in this State, after having fruited for several 
years, it has proved itself to be a prolific bearer, although 
oranges in common in this State will not bear large crops 
every year, every other year being an ofif year, more particu- 
larly so with seedlings, producing more fruit one year than 
another. 

Valencia Late. (Valencia August, Loretto, Rivers' Late.) 

This variety has in the last six years fruited in this State, 
and is one of the best varieties grown. (Figure No. i.) The 
fruit resembles the Paper Rind St. Michael in color and firm- 
ness, but oblong, and being larger in size. Trees of this 
variety do not commence to bear young; so much in its favor, 
as most of budded foreign varieties commence to bear when 
entirely too young, thus checking the growth of the tree. 
It is a very good keeper, and a prolific bearer. 

Fruit ripens very late, when all others are out of market. 

Through mistake, this variety was budded into several hun- 
dred trees in the orchard of Col. J. R. Dobbins, at San Gabriel. 
They were supposed to be the Navel. These buds were put 
into trees in a corner of the orchard, separate from the Wash- 



THE ORANGE. 



15 




Figure No. I. 

ingtofi Navels, that were budded at the same time. When the 
Navels began fruiting, these trees showed no signs of bearing 
whatever. The Navels fruited for three or four years before 
the Valencia Late. 

Colonel Dobbins became discouraged with them and con- 
cluded to have them rebudded with Washington Navel. But 
that year the trees put forth full of bloom, the fruit set well, 
and after all others had been shipped, he turned his attention to 
this variety, which as yet was hardly ripe enough for shipment, 
and to his gratification proved to be one of the best varieties 
he had. The trees were double the size of the Washington 
Navel. For the last two seasons fruit has been sold at $4 
per box, delivered at the station at San Gabriel. 

About six years ago Mr. J. W. Wolfskill, of Los Angeles, 
had one tree of this variety in bearing for two seasons, and 
noticing its late and other good qualities, budded extensively 
into ten-year old bearing trees ; and two years ago he received 
$6 50 per box in Chicago, in the month of June. 



16 



CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 



This was $2 per box more than the Palermo oranges brought 
in the same market at the same date. The agent reported, 
"No shrinkage and no decay." This variety should be exten- 
sively planted in this State. 

Maltese Blood. (Figure No. 2.) 

This is a very popular variety. The fruit is small to medium, 
oval; has a fine texture and flavor. The pulp is marked, and 
seems to be streaked and mottled with blood ; has few seeds ; 
tree is thornless. 




Figiue No 2. 

Mr. A. B. Chapman, of San Gabriel, who grows this variety 
more extensively than any other orchardist in this State, 
speaks very highly of it as being one of the best varieties 
which he grows. For several years he has made large ship- 
ments of it to the eastern market, and the returns obtained 
have been very satisfactory to him. 

The tree is of a dwarf habit, and can be set closer together 
in orchard form. 



THE ORANGE. 



17 



Mediterranean Sweet. (Figure No. 3.) 

Fruit medium to large; pulp and skin of fine texture; very 
solid and few seeds; ripens late, often not until May or June. 
The tree is thornless, and of a dwarf habit of growth ; inclined 




Figure No. 3. 

to overbear. This variety is now well known, and much sought 
for in our markets. It was originally introduced by T. A. 
Garey, of Los Angeles. 

Rio. 

Fruit and tree resembles the Mediterranean Sweet; but the 
fruit is much larger, has a thicker skin, ripens late, very sel- 
dom can the entire crop be picked from the tree, as it does not 
ripen even; green oranges are found on the trees throughout 
the summer. 

The tree differs from the Mediterranean Sweet, and the dif- 
ference is distinguished from the long shoots that this variety 
puts forth resembling water sprouts. These shoots start from 
the side limbs as well as from the main or leader, and at the 
apex of these shoots numerous lateral branches put forth, form- 



18 



CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 



ing a large head, clear above the main mass of foliage ; the 
tree is thornless, or nearly so, and is of a dwarf habit. 

Paper Rind St. Michael. (Figure No. 4.) 

Fruit small, round, very firm, and very juicy, pale, thin skin, 
grows very uniform in size, which is a great advantage in pack- 
ing. They require but little assorting. Ripens late and keeps 




Figure No. 4. 

well on the trees as late as August. The fruit does not drop 
from the tree when mature as other varieties do. The tree is 
of a dwarf habit, medium thorny, a good bearer, a very desira- 
ble variety. Dealers in San Francisco complain that they can 
not get enough of this variety for the local market. 



Asher's Best. 

The growth of this variety is very much like the Mediter- 
ranean Sweet; fruit, medium to large; the rind is very thin, 
juicy, sweet, and few seeds. It has been claimed to be a strain 
of the Mediterranean Sweet. Mr. Asher, of San Diego, after 
whom this variety was named, informs me that he bought the 



THE ORANGE. 19 

tree for the Shaddock, but that after fruiting proved to be a 
very desirable variety. It was named after him by the South- 
ern Cahfornia Horticultural Society. 

AzoREAN St. Michael. 

Imported by Mr. Chapman, of San Gabriel; fruit, medium 
to large, and solid; pulp fine and melting; medium thin rind, 
flattened, few seeds; ripens early and keeps well on the tree; 
a rapid grower and a prolific bearer; is a large tree, and is 
recommended for standard purposes. This variety has fruited 
with Mr. Chapman for a number of years, and is considered 
by him to be very desirable and profitable to grow. 




CHAPTER II. 

FOREIGN VARIETIES RECOMMENDED FOR TRIAL, 



CLASS B. 

The varieties given under this head, aside from the "White 
and King Orange," are but little known in this State; they have, 
however, began fruiting to a limited extent and may yet prove 
to be very desirable. Professor Van Deman speaks very highly 
of them and recommends that they be thoroughly tried in this 
State; the White Orange should also be given a fair trial, al- 
though I doubt if it will ever become popular in the market, 
as people prefer that rich color the orange possesses. The 
King Orange is also new and well worth to be tried. 

Jaffa. 

Fruit of medium size, heavy, and juicy, thin skinned, also 
very smooth, a remarkably handsome grower, very straight, and 
nearly thornless. 

Majorca. 

Fruit medium size, shape nearly round, a very handsome 
smooth orange, little pulp and few seeds, heavy and juicy. 



Hart's Tardiff. 

Fruit medium size, shape slightly oval, very solid, color pale 
yellow, heavy and juicy, ripens very late. In Florida it ripens 
in July and August.* 

*Has fruited with A. D. Hayth at Riverside. Mr. Hayth says it is a late orange, 
but likes Mediterranean Sweet better. 



THE ORANGE. 21 

Parson Brown. 

Fruit medium size, shape round, and with very smooth skin; 
ripens early. 

White Orange. 

Fruit large, round, light yellow, flesh white, the color of a 
lemon when cut open, very sweet, texture fine, ripens late, is 
of a dwarf habit, is more susceptible to frosts than most varie- 
ties. 

King Orange. 

A native of Siam, imported by Dr. S. R. Magee, of River- 
side; original trees were twenty-five in number. J. E. Cutter, 
of Riverside, worked this variety from the original trees on 
nine-year old trees standing in orchard, and was thus enabled 
to anticipate all others in obtaining fruit. 

It appears to be a late orange, ripening in May and June, 
averages below medium in size, very rough rind, segments 
cleave when fully ripe. It is the highest flavored orange I 
have ever sampled ; the tree is exceedingly thorny, resembling 
the lime. Of all oranges it is the least attractive in tree or 
fruit. 




CHAPTER III. 

FOREIGN VARIETIES TRIED AND NOT RECOMMENDED. 



CLASS C. 

The varieties named under this head are of foreign origin ; 
after having fruited in this State for several years, they have 
proved to be of inferior quahty, and their planting is not 
encouraged. 

Australian Navel. 

This tree does not resemble the Washington Navel in its 
habit; the foliage does, however, and in this way its identity 
has been much mistaken. The fruit varies greatly in size, all 
sizes generally being found on the same tree. A very shy 
bearer. Blooms profusely, but very few of the blooms set; 
often the trees are loaded with fruit, and after having attained 
the size of marbles drop to the ground, without any apparent 
cause whatever; it also has a tendency to split at the navel. 
The navel is usually large and prominent, unlike that of the 
Washington Navel, which is round and generally small. This 
variety was first introduced into California by the late Lewis 
Wolfskin ; the trees were imported from Australia in 1874. 



HOMOSASSA. 

Of Florida origin, and is one of the best varieties propa- 
gated in that State. In this State it does not come up to the 
expectation of parties who have tried it; deep orange-red 
skin, flesh melting and juicy, seeds thorny. 



THE ORANGE. 23 

Large St. Michael. 

This variety does not resemble the Paper Rind St. Michael 
in the least. The fruit is large and very coarse; tree thorny; 
inferior. 

Small St. Michael. 

This is not an established variety. It is entirely distinct 
from the Paper Rind St. Michael; fruit small; thick, coarse 
skin ; inferior. 

DUROI. 

Fruit, small to medium, firm, ribbed seeds, and a few thorns. 
Said to do well in Florida; it has not proved so in this State. 

Peerless (inferior). 

ChjcrcJiupillas ( inferior). 
Moore s Seedling (inferior). 
Moore s Thorn less (inferior). 
Charley Broivn (inferior). 
Heong Leong (no value). 
Tejierijfe (no value). 
Nutmeg (no value). 
St. Jago (no value). 
Large Chinese (inferior). 
Higgins (inferior). 
Phillips Bitter Sweet (no value). 
Dixon (inferior). 

Broad Leaf Mandarin (inferior). 
Thorny Mandarin (inferior). 
Coolie Mandarin (inferior). 
Emperor Mandarin (inferior). 
Emperor of China (inferior). 
Vaniglia (inferior). 
Hong Kong (no value). 
Excelsior (inferior). 
Portugal (no value). 
Magnum Bonnm (inferior). 



24 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Arcadia (inferior). 
Florida Bitter (wild orange). 
Large Chinese (no value). 
Forbidden Fruit (shaddock). 
Blood (no value). 
Large Blood (no value). 
Nicaraiigua Blood (inferior). 




CHAPTER IV. 

BEST JAPANESE VARIETIES. 



CLASS D. 

The varieties under this head are those which are now being 
propagated in California of Japanese origin. 



Tangerine, or Kid Glove. 

There are several varieties of Tangerines grown in California, 
and their true names are not known, as they were imported 
under Japanese names, and the labels were lost. Mr. A. B. 
Chapman and Horticultural Commissioner A. Scott Chapman 
have propagated a Tangerine orange, at their extensive orchards 
at San Gabriel, which is the best of that variety grown in this 
State. They are the largest growers of this orange in Cali- 
fornia. 

The fruit is deep red, and quite small. When ripe the rind 
is easily detached with the fingers, without the aid of a knife. 
It is very sweet, being perhaps the sweetest of all oranges 
grown in this State. It is very popular, and a desirable 
variety. 

A Tangerine orange box is 12 inches wide by 5 inches deep, 
and 16 inches long, inside measurement. About 125 to 150 
oranges fill the box. 

Mr. Chapman first set out the orchard with California seed- 
ling trees ; and after they had attained a good size, budded 
the Tangerine into them, the buds being placed quite high into 
the largest limbs. 

The buds were allowed to spread out and grow at will in 
this way. The trunks of the trees were soon covered by the 
3 



26 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

foliage, and in many instances the limbs touched the ground. 
The trees became beautiful, and very uniform in shape. This 
tree requires little or no outside pruning. The foliage having 
a weeping habit, makes it difficult to train as a tree, unless 
budded on large standard trees. 

Satsuma, Synonyms. (Unshiu, and Oonshiu.) 

Fruit of medium size and flattened, rind easily detached, of 
exceedingly fine texture, sweet and nearly seedless. The fruit 
grows very irregular, all sizes being found on the tree, which 
makes them very difficult to pack, even when assorted into 
sizes, on account of their shape. 

If for shipment they must be picked before mature, for when 
ripe the rind is loose from the pulp, and in packing will break 
and cause the orange to rot. The tree is remarkably hardy, 
having stood unharmed where all others in the same orchard 
were badly nipped by the frosts. The fruit from trees grown 
in California is much coarser than the fruit imported from 
Japan, grown either on our sweet seedling stock, or on the 
dwarf (Citrus Trifoliata) stock, upon which they are worked 
in Japan. The rind of most of the Japanese and Chinese 
varieties have a peculiar smell, and on this account they do not 
come into favor in the market. 

Nagami-Kinkan, or Kincquat. (Citrus Japonica.) 

Fruit very small, oblong or olive shaped, rind thick, yellow, 
smooth, sweet scented, very little pulp, containing many seeds, 
tree dwarf (a bush), a prolific bearer. The fruit is edible whole 
(rind and all); the rind has a pleasant aroma, and combined 
with its juice makes it very agreeable. It is also valuable for 
preserves and marmalade, but the demand for this fruit being 
so limited, it would hardly warrant it to be propagated except 
for ornament. The eating of too much rind is not healthy. 




CHAPTER V. 

JAPANESE VARIETIES CONTINUED. 



CLASS E. 

The varieties given, this head are grown in Japan, and de- 
scribed by the Japanese Agricultural Society. It is not known 
whether any of them are fruiting in California. Most of the 
varieties imported from Japan, after having fruited in this 
State, were given, and are known under different names, un- 
like those given below. The original labels having become 
lost, it is doubtful if any of these varieties will prove any bet- 
ter than those now erown in California. 



Natsu-Dai-Dai. 

Fruit very large, round, somewhat oblate. Rind thick, with 
rough surface. Color, bright yellow in first year; changes to 
dull yellow in second year. It also remains on the tree till 
the second summer, and then it is palatable. Pulp sweet, sub- 
acid, juicy. Good as summer fruit for table use. 

Dai-Dai. 

Fruit medium to large round. Rind thick, orange color, 
with bitter taste. Pulp sour. 

KUNEMBO. 

Fruit medium, round, sweet, oblate. Rind thick, deep 
orange color; very fragrant. Pulp sweet, delicious. Keeps 
well. Very good for table use. 



28 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 



Yamabuki-Mikan. 

Fruit large, roundish, conical. Rind thick, pale color. Pulp 
sweet, subacid. Good for table use and for keeping. 

Sakura-Jima-Mikan. 

Fruit small, roundish, oblate. Rind deep orange. Pulp 
sweet, juicy, most delicious qualit)\ Very good. 



Shirawa-Koji. 

Fruit small to medium, oblate, much larger than common 
Koji-Mikan. Rind thin, smooth, yellowish. Pulp sweet, sub- 
acid, free from bitter taste. Good in quality. 

Beni-Koji. 

Fruit medium, roundish oblate. Rind thin, brilliant reddish 
color. Pulp sweet, subacid, with slightly bitter taste. Good 
as an ornamental dessert dish. 

KiN-KUNENBO. 

Fruit medium roundish. Rind thin, orange yellow, adher- 
ing to pulp. Pulp sweet. It much resembles the True Sweet 
orange in form and color, but little inferior in quality. Keeps 
well. Good for table use and for keeping. 

lUKO. 

Tree very hardy. Fruit medium, roundish, much resembles 
ludzu in form; rather smooth on surface. Rind thick, yellow 
color. Pulp sweet when quite ripe. 

TOKO-IUDZU. 

Tree vigorous and prolific. Fruit small, round. Skin rough, 
pale yellow, smell not as good as common Iiulzu. It keeps 
well on the branch of the tree the second year. 



THE ORANGE. 29 

Jagatara-Mikan. 

Fruit very large, conical at the end. Rind very thick, 
orange color with rough surface. Pulp sweet, subacid, juicy. 
Good for table use and for keeping. 

Maru-Bushiukan. 

Fruit large or medium; closely resembles the citron in form, 
but it has little fragrance and an acid like the citron. Rind 
extraordinarily thick. The rind is used for confectionery. 

To-MlKAN. 

Fruit large to medium, round or globular, much resembles 
the true sweet orange in form. Rind rather thick, orange color. 
Pulp sweet, juicy. Keeps well. 

Kinu-Gawa-Mikan. 

Fruit large, oblate. Rind thin, smooth, yellowish orange 
color. Pulp sweet, juicy. Keeps a long time.. Good in 
quality. 

Bushiu-Kan. 

Fruit rather large size, quite solid, with scarcely any pulp 
or cells, and divided at the end into five or more long, round 
lobes, on which account it is called Bushiu-Kan, or Budah- 
fingered orange. The rind is pale yellowish color. The fruit 
has a most agreeable perfume, and is much esteemed for an 
ornamental pot culture. The young fruit is made into con- 
fectionery, and is esteemed for its fragrance. 

To-Dai-Dai. 

Fruit much resembles the Yamabuki-Mikan in form, but 
slightly differs in color and quality. Pulp sweet and delicious. 
Good for keeping. 



30 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Beni-Mikan. 

Fruit small, roundish, oblate. Rind thin, bright reddish 
color. Pulp juicy, rich in flavor. One of the best as an orna- 
mental dessert dish. 

Kawachi-Mikan. 

Fruit small, roundish, oblate. Rind thin, bright reddish 
color. Pulp sweet, subacid. Good for table use and for keep- 
ing. 

KiNOKUNI-MlKAN. 

Fruit medium, oblate. Rind thin, orange-yellow color, 
smooth surface. Pulp yellowish, sweet, juicy. One of the 
best for table use. 

Koji. 

Fruit medium, oblate. Rind very thin, pale yellow. Pulp 
subacid, with slightly bitter taste. Though it is inferior in 
quality, it ripens earlier; and also the flower bud, or even the 
flower, is used as a spice. 

lUDZU. 

Fruit medium round. Rind very thick, yellow, coarse un- 
even surface. Pulp subacid, many seeds. Rind fragrant smell, 
slightly bitter taste. Much used for cookery and confection- 
ery. The unripe fruit and the blossoms are also used as a 
spice. 

Marumi-Kinkan or Kincquat. 

Fruit very small, roundish or globular. Pulp small, contain- 
ing large seeds. It is eatable, rind and all. 

Naruto-Mikan. 

Fruit medium round, rather large. Rind thick, yellowish, 
rough on surface. It is sour in the first year, and remains 
on till second year, when it becomes delicious. Pulp sweet, 
juicy. Good as a summer dessert dish. 



THE ORANGE. 31 

Kabusa. 

Fruit large, round; much resembles the Dai-Dai, above 
named, in form, color, and quality. It is distinguished for 
having a single instead of a double calyx, as the Dai-Dai. 
The use and quality is strictly the same as the Dai-Dai. 

Ama-Dai-Dai. 

Fruit medium; much resembles the Kin-kunembo in form. 
This will keep as long as the true sweet orange, but is some- 
what inferior in quality. 

Comineiits on the above list. — From specimens received, and 
from lithographic plates issued by the Japanese Agricultural 
Society. 

Natsu-Dai-Dai. 

A species of Pomolo. 

Dai-Dai. 
Very thick rind and very coarse. 

Yama-Buki-Mikan. 
Greenish color, very thick, and coarse. 

Sakura-Jima-Mikan. 
Very small and flattened, very coarse. 

Shirawa-Koji. 
Small, with very thick rind and many seeds. 

Beni-Koji. 
Very highly colored, with thin rind, and few seeds. 



32 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

KiN-KUNENBO. 
Thin rind and few seeds. 

lUKO. 
Small, with very thick rind and full of seeds. 

TOKO-IUDZU. 
Very small, resembles our sweet lemon. 

Jagatara-Mikan. 

POMELO. 

Pomelo, with white pulp. 

Maru-Bushiukan. 
Resembles the Chinese lemon grown in this State. 

To-MiKAN. 

Color rusty brown, with very thick rind, coarse, and full of 
seeds. 

Kinu-Gawa-Mikan. 

Very large and bitter. 

Bushiu-Kan. 

Bitter, resembles the Chinese lemon. Specimens received 
were very unsightly, like a bunch of fingers grown together. 

To-Dai-Dai. 
Color, rusty brown ; very coatrse and bitter. 

Beni-Mikan. 
Very small ; color deep red ; few seed, and very thin rind. 



THE ORANGE. ' 33 

Kawachi-Mikan. 
Resembles the Mandarin. (See Class F.) 

KiNOKUNI-MlKAN. 
Resembles the Tangerine, or Kid Glove. (See Class D.) 

Koji. 

Color, dark rusty brown; the rind the thinnest of all Japan- 
ese varieties; but with many seeds, and bitter. 

lUDZU. 
Very thick rind, coarse and bitter. 

Marumi-Kinkan or Kincquat. 

Very small; the smallest of all species; the size of a me- 
dium size cherry, and full of large seeds. 

Kabusa. 

Pulp fine, with few seed, but very thick rind; pulp white, 
like a lemon. 

Naruto-Mikan. 

Color, rusty brown, nearly black ; inferior. 

Ama-Dai-Dai. 

Medium thin rind, pulp white, few seeds, color rusty brown, 
bitter. 

Note. — The description given by the Japanese Agricultural Society differs greatly 
from the specimens received. Out of the entire list the Kinokuni-Mikan, Kawachi- 
Mikan, and the Satsuma are the only varieties worth propagating, and that only to 
a limited extent. 



CHAPTER VI. 

ORNAMENTAL VARIETIES. (Japanese and Chinese origin.) 



CLASS F. 

Dwarf Mandarin. 

This tree is very ornamental. The fruit is very red in 
color; flattened at the poles; generally has an outgrowth at 
the bloom end, resembling the Australian Navel. 

When the fruit is unripe it is very bitter; but when fully 
ripe, and if the rind is separated carefully, can be eaten. The 
rind has a peculiar aroma, which is disagreeable. Through 
the summer, when all other oranges are gone, this tree is full 
of fruit. As few care for it, the fruit being of such a deep red, 
makes it highly ornamental. 

PUMALQl- 

Ornamental only. A tree with large deep green foliage; 
fruit very large, weighing from 2 to 5 pounds each; has a 
peculiar odor; not eatable, unless in strictly tropical countries. 

.r^Pj^^-pIjO STN. Grape Fruit (Cal.). 

This fruit is claimed to be of distinct species, but is a variety 
of the Shaddock; fruit of a pale yellow, resembling the Citron; 
skin very smooth ; pulp subacid, with a decided flavor of grape, 
hence its name; tree very ornamental; semi-dwarf 

Shaddock. (Mammoth. Figure No. 5.) 

Native of China or Japan. It was brought to the West 
Indies by one Captain Shaddock, from whom it has taken its 
name. It is also known as Pumpel-mouse. 




Figure No. 5. 



THE ORANGE. 35 

Fruit very large, with smooth skin, pale yellow, and very 
glossy. The rind is very thick and spongy, and very bitter; 
pulp dark green. Figure No. 5 represents a Shaddock cut 
open, showing thickness of rind and pulp. 

Shaddock. (Blood.) 

This variety resembles the Mammoth in all respects, except 
that the pulp is red. 

Bouquet. 

Ornamental only. Florists value its bloom for its fragrance 
and large size, and for this purpose it is largely cultivated. 
Fruit very bitter. 

Bergamot. 

Ornamental only, fruit large and very rough, flattened; has 
a pleasant aroma ; is grown by florists for the bloom. 

Myrtle Leaf. 

Ornamental only; tree very dwarf; foliage densely packed 
together; small leaf, the shape of the myrtle; fruit, bright red 
and very bitter. 

Variegated Orange. 

Ornamental only; tree dwarf; leaf variegated, with white 
margin and green center; very glossy; stem white and green; 
fruit striped with white, and very bitter. 

Dwarf Orange (Citrus Trifoliata). 

Ornamental. — This stock is used for dwarfing purposes. It 
is a hardy shrub of the citrus family. The Japanese dwarf 
their varieties by budding on this stock, which is of a very 
slow growth, and produce orange trees suitable for pot growing. 



CHAPTER VII. 

BEST VARIETIES, CALIFORNIA ORIGIN. 



CLASS G. 

The advantage a good seedling (of home origin) has over 
any foreign variety is that it is hardy, and can be planted in 
localities where the temperature gets so low as to prevent for- 
eign varieties from thriving ; they will also make a larger tree. 
Such are the varieties given under this head : 

WoLFSKiLL's Best, or Favorite. (Figure No. 6.) 

Originated by J. W. Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. A good 
grower. Original tree now stands over thirty feet high, and 
as large as any seedling of the same age. The original tree is 
not very thorny. Thorns decrease in size as the tree grows 
older. Fruit is of excellent quality, somewhat flattened, deep 
orange red, fine grain and pulp. A good bearer; early, and 
should be picked before May. Ripens ahead of all other 
native varieties; is largely cultivated in this State; the choice- 
est of all native varieties. 



Mayberrv's Premier. 

Originated by E. L. Mayberry, at El Molino Ranch, near 
San Gabriel. The original tree (a twin tree) stands about 
thirty feet high. The orange is medium in size, but of a deep 
red color ; rind thin and very smooth ; pulp and grain very 
fine. The old tree has very small thorns. Budding appears 
to improve the growth of the trees. Spring buds generally 
make large trees the first year. This variety should be budded 



THE ORANGE. 



37 




Figure No. 6. 

on thrifty stocks, able to hold the weight of the bud after a 
year's growth. 

Baldwin's Favorite. 

Originated by the late Lewis Wolfskill at the Santa Anita 
Ranch, Los Angeles County. Ls a good seedling, but lacking 
qualities which the two varieties above mentioned possess. 

Wilson's Bp:st (Lake Vineyard). 

Originated by the late B. D.Wilson, at San Gabriel; a good 
variety. Original tree is very large and quite thorny. 



KoNah. 

A California seedling from seed grown on Konah Island. 
Fruit large, rough, and thick skin. Tree very -hcxm^ and very 
hard to keep in shape, ripens early, and is considered by many 
to be a very desirable variety. I have found that it will do 
better in some localities than in others. 



38 



CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 



NEW VARIETIES (Home origin). 

cooper's seedling. 

Originated by Hon. Ellwood Cooper, at Ellwood, Santa 
Barbara County. Fruit of medium size, oval; pulp, very fine, 
and melting. Color, pale yellow. Very thin skin; seedless. 
A thrifty grower, and a prolific bearer — a very desirable 
variety. 

Kercheval's Queen. 

Originated at Los Angeles. Fruit above medium size, ex- 
cellent flavor, few seeds, and medium thin rind. The tree is a 
vigorous grower. 




CHAPTER VIII. 

VARIETIES OF CALIFORNIA ORIGIN NOT RECOMMENDED. 



CLASS H. 

The varieties under this head are of inferior quahty, and 
their planting is not recommended, as, since they were intro- 
duced, the varieties in Class G have been found most profitable 
to grow. 

NiCARAGUAN. 

Originated by the late Dr. J. Shaw, of Los Angeles, from 
seed from the Isthmus. Fruit very large, thick-skinned, in- 
ferior. 

Tahiti. 

Originated by the late Dr. Shaw, from seed from Tahiti. 
Same as common seedling fruit. 

I. X. L. 

Originated by J. W. Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. Raised 
from seed imported from Tahiti. Tree very thorny. 

Wolfskill's Eureka. 

Originated by the late Lewis Wolfskill, at Los Angeles. 
Fruit very small, round in shape. No better than the other 
varieties named. 




CHAPTER IX. 

MISCELLANEOUS VARIETIES GROWN IN FOREIGN COUN-- 
TRIES AND IN FLORIDA. 



CLASS I. 

The varieties under this head are the leading varieties grown 
in foreign countries, as well as those that in recent years have 
been introduced into Florida; also the varieties of Florida 
origin. Many of these varieties do well in their native coun- 
try, but when planted in this State do not come up to the ex- 
pectation of those who have imported them. Nevertheless it 
is well to experiment. 

Note. — The varieties im]iorted from these countries, and now fruiting in Florida, 
and in CaHfornia, are left out of this list. They will be found under other heads. 

Portugal. 

Selecta (highly priced). 

China (good, but does not bear transportation). 

Navel (same as Australian). 

Turkey. 

Candian (considered very good). 
Syrian (good). 
Chio (common). 
Paros (common). 
Archipelago (good). 
Mitylene (good). 
Tenedos (good). 
Sainos (good). 



THE ORANGE. 41 



Asia Minor. 



Scio (light yellow, good). 

Parakila (deep red, very large). 

Kan (blood red color, and very sweet). 

Syria. 

Accawy (roundish in form, best in Syria). 
Belady (very thick rind). 
Shamonty (oblong, thin rind, early). 
Bisry (fine flavored). 
Tarsus Szveet (common). 
Tarsus (sour). 

Italy. 

Melajigolo (sour stock). 
Red Juiced Orange (highly priced). 
Double Flowered Orafige. 
Szveet Orange (citrus bigarradia dulcis). 
Mandarin (citrus deliciosa). 
Vanigila. 

Sicilian (common). 
Oval (Marina). 
Round (Marina). 

Spain. 

Narafijo Dulci Franco (sweet orange). 

Naranjo Bigarrado Franco (sour). 

Naranjo Bigarrado Gallesio (bitter). 

Naranjo China Ligetima (very sweet thin rind, the most 
highly priced). 

Havana Dulci. 

Naranja Cumun (common). 

Early Spanish (excellent). 

Naranjo Agris (sour). 

Catania. 

Sour-Sweet (common). 

Loretto (similar to Valencia late ; specimens show no dif- 
ference). 

4 



42 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Australia. 

Sabina (very good). 

Navel. 

Paramatta (from Sidney). 

Poor Alan (from Sidney). 

Maltese Oval. 

Large Marmalade. 

Bitter Loose Jacket. 

Chinese Oval. 

Szveet Seville. 

Bitter Seville. 

Africa. 

Sweet Orange (common, but good). 

Imperial (very large ; good ). 

T^^jFi^/ (small ; good). 

Silver Leaf. 

Double Flower (ornamental). 

Violet Flower (ornamental). 

Balearic, or Malorea (large ; thin skin ; productive). 

Portugal, or China (fruit very large). 

Orange of Nice (very good). 

Jamaica. 

Comprida (remarkable for its aromatic flavor). 

Ombigo (good). 

Lisbon Orange (early and good). 

Jamaican (common, but good). 

Florida. 

Szveet Seville (Golden Angel; sugar sweet; early). 

Early Oblong (Thornless Bell, Florida origin). 

^^ (Beaches No. i, Florida origin). 

Botelha (ripens late). 

Diilcissinia. 

Prata. 



THE ORANGE. 43 

Exquisite. 

Cleopatra (very small Tangerine species; of little value). 

Old Villi (Beach's No. 4; Florida origin). 

A rcadia. 

Prolific (Rivers). 

Star Calyx (desirable). 

Acis (ribbed and very good). 

Centennial, Hart's (very high flavor). 

Dr. May's Best (Drummit). 

Nonpareil (Florida origin, early). 

Dr. Cogill's Tangerine (considered very good and above all 

others; Florida origin). 
Pernavibnco. 

Mediterranean, Sanford's (same as Garey's). 
Parson's Navel (like Australian; Florida origin). 
Italian Navel (like Australian). 

Double Imperial Navel (not as good as Washington). 
Bostrom's Prize Navel (Florida origin). 
Richardson s Navel (Florida origin). 
Paragon (Tangerine species; of Florida origin). 
Bijou (Moragne's Tangerine, Dancy's Tangerine; Florida 

origin). 
China (Tangerine, Willow Leaf). 
Riiby (Tangerine species; ruby red). 
Golden F<r?r/>^^W (Mandarin species ; ornamental). 
China Szveet (Mandarin species; of Florida origin). 
Cluster Grape Fruit (bears in clusters; ornamental only). 
Triumph Grape Fruit (cross between orange and grape fruit). 
Markam's Best (Florida origin). 
Higley's Late (Florida origin). 
Wilder (Florida origin). 
Dixon (Florida origin). 
Krause (Florida origin). 
Pride of Malta (medium size, flattened). 
Everbearing (Florida origin). 

Otaheite {AwAxi; reddish flowers; ornamental only). 
Peerless (Rembert's best; fruit large, good). 
Madame Vinous (Florida origin). 
Cuniminghani (Florida origin). 



44 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Tony (Florida origin). 
Pineapple (pineapple flavor). 
Spratt's Harmon (Florida origin). 
Bell (pear shaped; Florida origin). 
Pierce's Blood (Gate ; Florida origin). 
Ronnd Sweet Blood (Florida origin). 
Armory s Blood (Florida origin). 
Sail's Blood {¥\oY\ddi origin). 
Mediterranean Blood. 
Thornless (Florida origin). 
Foicndling ( Florida origin). 
DeBarrys Seedling ( Florida origin). 
Dr. Starke s Best ( Florida origin). 
Damis Best (Florida origin). 
Melhvood Seedling (Fiorina origin). 
Bitter Sweet (Mandarin species). 
Osceloa (Florida origin). 
Brazilian (inferior). 
Oce (Florida origin). 
Praia, or Silver (Florida origin). 
BeacJts, No. 5 (pear shaped ; Florida origin). 
Phillip's Bitter Szveet (hybrid of wild and sweet orange). 
Foster (Florida origin). 
Indian River (tree very thorny). 
Militensis (early bearer, strong grower). 
Marquis (from Malta). 
Navel, Sanford's (from Belgium). 
Orange Lake (Florida origin). 
Qneen. 

Queen of Halifax. 
Sustain Navel. 

Sirinaggar-Cindra (from Northern Hindostan). 
Velvet Peel (ornamental). 
Whitaker (Florida origin). 
Whitaker, No. 2 (Florida origin). 
Mary Brement (Mandarin species). 
Indian River Szueet (Florida origin). 



CHAPTER X. 



THE ORANGE CROP; GATHERING, CURING, SHIPPING, ETC. 



Time of Shipping. 

In this- State March and April, and even May and June, are 
the best months in which to ship the general crop. 

Oranges grown in the northern and central part of this State 
color much earlier than those grown in the southern counties, 
but no oranges are ripe then (excepting early foreign varieties), 
but being highly colored, they can be placed in the market in 
December and January. 

Picking. 

The tree should never be picked clean ; only the ripe fruit 
should first be picked, thus lightening up the trees. The clean, 
bright colored, smooth, fine skin, and firm oranges will always 
command the best prices. 



Orange Curing. 

The fruit should be handled with care. It is better to (clip) 
stem cut than to pull the orange, as in pulling there is danger 
of tearing the skin. The fruit should not be packed fresh 
from the tree, as when packed it will heat and sweat in the 
boxes at an ordinary temperature, and as the entire contents 
in the box becomes damp, there is great danger from rot and 
decay. The fruit should be picked in boxes and left under 
the tree three or four days, to allow the rind of the fruit to 
shrink and to lose the surplus moisture in the rind. Another 
way is to place them in heaps in a dry room. Unless the 
weather is very cool they go through a natural sweat, in which 



46 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

the surplus moisture escapes and the rind becomes tough and 
pliable; many unseen imperfections, such as slight bruises, 
etc., will develop into spots and permit a more certain selec- 
tion of the perfect fruit for market. When the weather is too 
cool the oranges do not sweat naturally; they are then covered 
with blankets, etc. During the sweating process the fruit 
should be carefully examined from time to time ; the doors 
should always be kept shut, and a current of air should not be 
allowed to pass through the room. In three or four days a 
slightly sticky appearance will be noticed on the rind; then 
the fruit is wiped dry and put into boxes, filling them half 
full, and are left in the room until dry; then they are ready 
for packing. They should be in such a condition that when 
they are packed they will not become loose, so that every time 
the car shakes they will knock one against the other; this is 
the great secret of loss in fruit, especially when shipped to the 
eastern market. 

Points in Packing. 

The fruit should be carefully assorted as to size and color. 
Small and large oranges should never be put into the same 
box. The wrapper should be careful to reject every bruised 
or otherwise injured orange. The packer should be careful 
not to put different varieties in the same box in packing. 
The oranges should be placed one by one, closely together in 
layers, so that there can be no sliding or rolling of the fruit in 
the box. The top layer should project not less than one half 
inch nor more than three quarters of an inch above the side 
of the box, so that the top, when nailed on, should hold the 
layers firmly in their places, even after there has been some 
shrinkage of the fruit. 

Wrapping. 

The fruit paper used for wrapping should contain as little 
oil as possible, so that it will readily absorb and throw off 
moisture. Wrapping oranges is regarded by many as being 
useless and unnecessary. Experience has taught the orange 
growers in the last few years that it is better in every way to 
wrap the fruit, for it carries better, especially when the fruit is 
to be transported a considerable distance by rail. 



THE ORANGE. 47 

Size of an Orange Box. 

The standard size orange box is twelve inches by twelve, 
by twenty-six and a half, outside measurement, with a parti- 
tion exactly in the middle. They should be made of light 
and well seasoned material, neatly and strongly put together. 

Standard Counts. 

The standard counts to the box are eighty, ninety-six, one 
hundred and twelve, one hundred and twenty-eight, one hun- 
dred and forty-six, one hundred and sixty-four, one hundred 
and seventy-six, two hundred, two hundred and twenty-six, 
two hundred and fifty, and two hundred and eighty-two. 
When the fruit is graded to these sizes, and properly packed 
in regular layers, they fit and fill up the box in the best pos- 
sible manner. The number of oranges and brand should be 
marked on each box. This is important, as buyers always 
prefer to know just how many oranges they are buying. The 
number contained in the standard box also gives an exact 
idea of the size of the fruit. 




CHAPTER XI. 

PROPAGATING, PLANTING, BUDDING, GRAFTING, PRUNING, 
DISEASES, ETC. 



Planting from the Seed. 

Questions are often asked, do oranges come true from the 
seed? The seed of the orange has seldom been known to pro- 
duce fruit equal to that of the parent tree. If the seed of an 
orange or lemon is planted, the fruit of that tree will be dif- 
ferent from the fruit from which it came; it is in this way that 
varieties are produced. However, it comes truer to seed than 
most fruits. 

Seedlings. 

Many who prefer to plant their orchards with seedlings, 
generally select the seed from a good orange. For this the 
Tahiti orange has been much used, and the trees grown from 
it have produced good fruit. Where orchards are planted from 
the same seed, many trees differ from others both in foliage 
and in fruit. 

Hybridized Seed. 

Great care should be taken in planting seed intended to 
grow seedlings for orchard planting. The seed should be un- 
hybridized. In this State lemons and limes are generally 
mixed in the orchard, or in the neighboring orchards, and bees 
intermix the pollen of the different flowers. It is in this way 
that worthless hybrids are produced. Therefore California 
grown seed should never be planted to make a seedling grove. 
They will do for stocks for budding upon. 



THE ORANGE. 49 

Taking the Seed Out of the Fruit. 

The fruit is piled into heaps or put into barrels to rot. 
When the fruit has decayed so that it will break into many 
pieces when handled, it is then crushed in a tub or barrel and 
the seed is washed out. A coarse sieve is used ; the soft sub- 
stance of the fruit will pass through the wires, leaving- nothing 
but the seed in the sieve. The seed is washed in a place where 
water can be used freely, as considerable is required to do the 
work properly. 

Keeping Seed in Sand. 

The seed of the orange should not be allowed to get dry 
after being taken from the fruit. If you are not ready to plant 
them, take and put them in moist sand. In this way they can 
be kept until everything is prepared. 

How TO Put Them in Sand. 

Take a shallow box, say five inches deep and not more than 
thirty inches square, fill it half full of moist sand, then put the 
seed on top, about two inches deep, and throw on the top of 
the seed considerable sand and mix it together with the hands. 
This is done so that the sand will stick to the seeds, and not 
allow the seeds to adhere to each other. Then fill up the box 
with sand and let them remain until they are to be planted. 
The boxes can be stacked one upon the other. 

Taking Them Out of the Sand. 

The seed bed having been prepared, have a coarse sieve, and 
take the top box and dump its contents into the sieve. This 
must be done with care so as not to bruise the seed ; then shake 
the sieve, the sand will pass through, leaving nothing but the 
seed in the sieve; then empty the seed into a tub of water, all 
the imperfect ones will rise to the top. They should be thrown 
away, as they will not germinate. Those that sink to the bot- 
tom are the ones to plant, for they will be found to be large 
and healthy. 



50 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

The Seed Bed. 

The seed bed should be inclosed with boards eighteen or 
twenty inches wide, set on edge about four to six feet apart. 
The bottom should be floored, so as to prevent gophers and 
ground moles from entering the seed bed. In no case should 
the seed be sown in a bed in open ground, for a mole in one 
night will destroy nearly all the plants. Laths should be nailed 
on top, leaving a space of one half inch between them to pro- 
tect the seed from being scratched up by birds. A covering 
of thin muslin should be put on top of the laths to protect the 
young plants from being scorched by the hot sun. If the 
weather be cloudy, it is well that the covering be removed to 
allow the bed to get warm. It is better to plant the seed 
thickly and broadcast; as all plants are to be removed, it does 
not matter how thick they come up. The seed should be cov- 
ered from one to two inches. 

Time of Planting the Seed. 

Many plant the seed in January and February. This is en- 
tirely too early, as the seed will not germinate until spring. 
April, and even May, are the best months, as the ground is 
then warm and all danger of frost is over. The seed bed 
should be kept moist, but not too wet. 

Transplanting. 

In one year the plants will be large enough to be trans- 
planted in nursery form. A section of the bed should only 
be dug up at a time; the plants should be assorted; the very 
small and delicate ones should be planted in shallow boxes by 
themselves and kept another year; they being so small and 
delicate are generally scorched by the sun when planted in the 
open ground, and those that do not generally remain small in 
the nursery. 



THE ORANGE. 51 

Distance of Nursery Rows. 

The rows should be far enough apart to admit a cultivator 
between them. It is a mistake when the rows are set less tlian 
four feet apart, as, Avhen after being budded, many buds are 
knocked off by the horse or the traces rubbing against them. 
I prefer the rows to be six feet apart. This will give ample 
room for cultivation; and also when in digging up the trees a 
small narrow sled can be run in to haul them to the head of 
the rows without rubbing against the nursery stock. 

Distance in Nursery Rows. 

Planting close together in the rows will tend to make feeble 
and slender trees. If it is intended not to sack the trees when 
they are to be taken up, then the plants can be set from eight 
to twelve inches apart, and they will make strong and thrifty 
stocks, but if it is intended to sack any of them, then it is too 
close. They should be at least eighteen inches apart; this will 
give the digger enough space to take up trees between others, 
which is generally done. As the trees do not grow even, cer- 
tain sizes are taken up and others left to grow awhile. It also 
has the advantage that the roots are not cut too short, which 
is apt to be where they are planted close together. 

It is well to protect the trees in the nursery from frost 
through the winter by building over them a frame, on top of 
which brush is laid thickly; in this way the plants will pass 
through the winter unharmed. In the spring, after all danger 
of frosts are over, the brush and staging are removed. For this 
cypress brush is mostly used. 

Trimming the Stock. 

The plants should not be trimmed until at least one year 
after being planted ; they should be left to grow at will the first 
year. If the plants are trimmed when too young they will 
make slender and feeble stock. It is better to let the plants 
grow for a year, giving them the best of care ; then in the fol- 
lowing spring, as early as possible, say in February, the plants 



52 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

are trimmed, leaving a clear stock. The trimmer should also 
remove all thorns for about six inches from the ground, as 
they will be in the way of the budder, and all cuts should be 
made close and covered with rubber paint, so that they may 
soon heal over. The brush is then gathered and burnt. As 
the ground is packed by the trimmers, it is loosened by run- 
ning a cultivator between the rows; then they are left to be 
budded. 

Spring Budding. 

Generally in the months of March and April, as soon as the 
trees begin to put forth, and the sap flows freely, it is then the 
time to bud. Everything should be prepared ; no time should 
be lost, as the buds first inserted will sometimes start in less 
than three weeks, with much vigor, and by summer will have 
a large and thrifty top. The buds should be looked over at 
least ten days after they are inserted, and all those that show 
signs of dying should be rebudded, in order to give them an 
early start, and that they grow even with the others. 

Summer Budding. 

Summer budding is generally done in July and August. It 
is not considered as good as spring budding, because the buds 
do not start even ; and as the greater portion of them start so 
late, their growth is so tender by the time winter sets in, that 
if they pass through it, become prematurely hardened by the 
cold weather, which causes the tree to become stunted. 



Selecting Buds. 

In selecting buds from a tree, nothing but the best buds 
should be selected. This point is of practical importance, for 
if weak or immature buds are inserted, they remain on the 
tree at least a year before starting. Immature or imperfect 
buds have often been inserted into trees, as good buds have 
been scarce. In order to start them, the tops of the trees 
were removed ; the buds not being mature, failed to start. 
The growth and all suckers were from time to time removed 



THE ORANGE. 53 

to see if the buds would start; however, they did not, and the 
continuing- suckering' caused the trees to die. 



A New Method. 

Meeting" with such difficulty in making buds grow on old 
wood, led me to carry on a series of experiments, to find, if 
possible, a way by which buds would grow in old and large 
limbs; that if this was accomplished, it would do away with 
having to cut the tops and wait for the new wood to grow, 
in order to bud into it. 

The Method. 

The very largest buds were selected, those having a large 
thorn (Figure No. 7). The bud was cut, leaving into it con- 
siderable wood, and at least one inch long, taking from the 
limb it was cut at least one half of the wood; then with the 
sharp point of the knife the wood in the bud was gouged out. 

Great care was used not to run the 
end of the knife into the bark of the /|i 

bud on either side, the wood being care- /il 

fully removed, leaving but a very small n /li|l 

portion of it, only enough to hold the -««iaSHg«H^|: P- b 
thorn firmly to the bark of the bud, as ^lilfi 

shown in Figure No. 7, A. It was then li 'li/ 

inserted into the tree, and then wound ^i^ 

tightly with twine. The end of the Figure No. 7. 

thorn should not be cut, as it causes 

the bud to wilt and die. The result of this experiment was 
very satisfactory and successful. This was done in spring, 
summer, and fall; the buds being large and plump, made 
good growth and not two per cent were lost. This budding 
is best to be done in the spring, as there is at this time an 
abundance of sap. The buds will also take better than when 
inserted later. About an inch of the bark above the bud in 
a circle can be removed to force the sap into the bud, which 
will start before the top is cut away. The top is left on the 
tree to protect it. The twine should be left on the trees as 



54 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

long as possible, because the bark is thicker on a large tree 
than on a small one; and if the twine is removed too soon the 
bark will open, caused by the action of the atmosphere, the 
bud will be left exposed and will dry. However, great care 
should be taken not to leave it on too long, as it will cut into 
the tree. If upon examination it is found that it is working 
into the bark, it should be loosened, untied, and tied (with the 
same twine) over again. If this work is done in the summer 
or fall, the buds must be left to lie dormant through the win- 
ter. In early spring the top of the tree is removed, and the 
bud allowed to grow; but in no case should the entire top be 
removed. At least one large limb should be left to force the 
sap into the buds, and all the lower brush on the trunk should 
be left to protect it from being sunburned. This is, however, 
removed as soon as the buds are able to shade the trunk and 
take from it the sap flowing. When these large limbs are re- 
moved, the cuts should immediately be painted with at least 
two coats of the best rubber paint, to protect them from crack- 
ing, and so that they may heal and become healthy. 

Thornless Buds. 

The advantage in budding with thornless varieties is that 
the wood in the bud can be removed with great ease, which is 
a great advantage in budding, as when the wood is removed 
nearly every bud will take ; that is when the wood in the bud 
is removed without having to use a knife. There being no 
thorn in the bud, the wood is removed from it as easy as the 
wood in a peach bud; it also leaves the bark of the bud 
uninjured. This can not be done with a thorny bud, as the 
thorn is attached to the wood in the bud, therefore the neces- 
sity of cutting it out. 

Grafting Citrus Trees. 

This method is entirely disregarded in this State, Budding 
being surer, and the most simple and best. Grafting citrus 
trees is not recommended. 




THE ORANGE. 55 

Cutting Off the Tops. 

It is well not to allow the strings to cut into the tree. They 
should be watched. In the spring, as the Nursery trees swell 
very fast, three weeks is long enough for the strings to remain 
on them ; but the tops should not be cut off then. The strings 
should be removed, the nursery irrigated and cultivated. This 
will force new growth, and the tops should then be cut back 
from four to eight inches above the bud. After the bud has 
grown about six inches or more, it is tied to the 
stock, as shown in Figure No. 8. When the bud 
has become stocky and able to support itself, what 
remains of the top is cut away, as shown in Figure 
No. 8, a. The cut should be made smooth, and 
painted with rubber paint. This helps the wound 
in healing over, and protects the stock from the 
action of the atmosphere. Great care should be 
used in the cutting of the tops; that it be done at Fig. No. 8. 
the proper time, and that they be not cut so near 
the bud as to endanger it. I much prefer to leave a little 
brush on the part cut, this to be removed after the buds have 
started. 

Starting the Bud. 

When the stocks put forth the buds generally start also ; 
and the suckers being very tender, are removed by hand 
(thumb pruning), breaking at the touch. Some prefer to use 
a sharp knife, as in many instances where they are knocked 
off with the hand others will sprout around where they were 
knocked off. Cutting them with a sharp knife has also the 
advantage that no others will grow where any had been cut, 
and the cut being made clean will give the tree a smooth 
body, and as the tree grows very little sucking will be re- 
quired. When they are removed by rubbing with the hand 
the trunks generally become rough, and the sucking much 
greater. 

After the buds have made a year's growth, they are ready 
for market, although two-year old buds are more preferable. 



56 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Taking Them up from the Nursery. 

Balling System. — If only one tree is to be taken up, that is 
between two others, a narrow trench is made within six inches 
of the tree, and just in front of it, and then the tap root is cut 
about eighteen inches or so deep, then with a spade a round 
oblong- ball is cut leaving in it the tree. For this it is better 
that two men do the work, as it is more expeditious, and bet- 
ter work can be done. The spade should be very sharp, or in 
cutting the roots the jar will break the ball. If large roots 
are to be cut it is better to use pruning shears to cut them. 
When trees are taken up with a sound ball of earth the leaves 
will hardly wilt. Citrus trees should never be transplanted if 
suffering for water. 

Puddling System. 

Puddling is practiced where the soil is so loose that sacking 
is rendered impossible; many prefer this system to any other, 
as it gives the trees larger and more roots; and where all due 
precautions are taken, puddling is the best system, and consid- 
erable expense is saved, especially where a large orchard is 
planted. To be successful the following rules should be car- 
ried out: First, the holes should be all dug before any of the 
trees are taken out. Second, the roots of the trees should not 
be exposed to the sun, even if only for a few minutes, for the 
fibrous roots are so delicate that the sun will dry them and 
they will perish. 

Directions. 

A trench is dug on one side of the row, the taproots are 
then cut, a hole is made in the ground and filled half full of 
water, then soil is thrown into it and worked with a hoe. The 
puddle should be thin enough so that when the roots of the 
trees are put into it that it will stick to them, at the same time 
wetting every part thoroughly. The trees are then taken up; 
the man cutting the remaining roots with a spade will cause 
the trees to fall into the trench, the soil is shook from the 
roots, and they are immediately dipped into the mud, or pud- 
dle. They are then handed to a man who places them on 



THE ORANGE. 57 

wet straw in the wagon ; a large canvas, or covering, is placed 
on the wagon to prevent the sun from drying the roots. The 
wagon is then driven to the field, where the holes were dug 
and prepared. The driver then hands the trees, one at a time, 
the planter holes the trees in the hole, while his men fill it up 
with dirt, first throwing in the moistest; the planter presses 
the soil very lightly and goes to the next one. (It is best to 
have plenty of help, and the work done as quickly as possible.) 
The tree having been set, a basin is made around it and a 
couple of buckets of water poured into the basin ; this will 
cause the soil to settle and keep the tree fresh until water can 
be run down the rows in furrows. I have set out several 
orchards in this way, and have lost but few trees. An orchard 
I set out three years ago in this way proved a great success, 
and out of six hundred trees only one failed. 

When to Plant. 

Citrus trees are transplanted at various seasons, preference 
being given to one of its dormant periods, occurring during the 
year. 

Trees transplanted in the winter, when the ground is cold, 
will remain in it until spring without growing; therefore it is 
better not to transplant citrus trees until the ground begins to 
get warm. The nearer an orange tree is to starting new 
growth, the greater its strength and root power, and this is the 
best time for transplanting; also after they have made their 
first growth and before starting the second time in spring. 

Topping the Trees. 

When a tree is taken from the nursery the tops should be 
cut back; the branches should be so cut that in starting will 
form a fine shaped head to the stock. This is done because 
the evaporation of the leaves is rapid, and in many cases, 
where the long tops are left on, causes the circulation of the 
tree to dry, and also the bark will shrivel before the roots have 
assumed their natural functions. If the leaves commence to 
dry,' it is better they should be cut, to prevent them from com- 
mencing to carry off the fluids of evaporation. 



58 



CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 



Preparation of the Soil. 

The land should be thoroughly worked through the winter, 
and prepared to be planted in the spring, when it becomes 
warm ; also all weeds and stubble plowed under will be decom- 
posed and serve as a fertilizer to the orchard. The thorough 
working of the soil liberates crude gases and changes the nutri- 
tive principles to a form more readily assimilated by the tree. 

Soil for Orange Trees. 

An orange tree should never be planted on heavy low ground, 
or on low damp ground, where water can be reached within a 
few inches from the surface, and never should an orange tree 
be planted on adobe soil; they will always be troubled with 
gum disease, and will also be nipped by frosts every year. A 
deep, rich, porous soil is not only necessary to insure a good 
yield of fruit, but absolutely necessary to give the trees a vig- 
orous growth. Trees on heavy adobe or poor soil become 
stunted, and will not produce fine fruit. This is a fact that 
has been proven generations back, and I need not comment 
upon it. What the orange tree wants, and must have to yield 
a profitable return, is a deep, rich soil, gravelly or otherwise. 
Orange trees planted in a poor soil never become profitable 
bearers. 

Distances to Plant. 

Dwarfs, such as Tangerine, Satsuma, etc lo feet. 

Semi-dwarfs, such as Washington Navel 

Mediterranean Sweet, Maltese Blood 

St. Michael i8 to 24 feet. 

Standards, such as Wolfskill's Best, etc 24 to 30 feet. 

Seedlings 30 to 40 feet. 



Number of Trees on an Acre When Planted, 



Square. Quincunx. 



Ten feet 

Twelve feet .... 
Fourteen feet . . . 

Sixteen feet 

Eighteen feet . . . 

Twenty feet 

Twenty-two feet . 
Twenty-four feet . 
Thirty feet 



426 


831 


303 


571 


222 


415 


170 


313 


134 


247 


109 


199 


90 


173 


76 


137 


48 


83 



THE ORANGE. 



59 



Planting Systems. 

The methods most common in use are the Square and the 
Quincunx systems. The most adopted is the Square system, 
as the orchard can be changed to Quincunx after being planted, 
even after a number of years' growth. Two other systems are 
recommended for standard and dwarf trees. In order that 
they be better understood the ilhistration is given, showing the 
rows of the standard trees and the rows of dwarf trees by 
themselves. The distances given 

need not be adopted, but may be % & % ^\ 

changed to any which may best 
suit the planter. However, the 
distances recommended are such 
as generally have been adopted. 

i. 



k. .4 



Figure No. 9. 



The Square System. 

This system is the most adopted 
by the fruit growers. In this the 
orchard is laid off in lines, crossing 
each other with equal intervals of 
space, and a tree is planted at each 
crossing of the lines. This system 
is much preferred to any other, because it can be changed to 
quincunx, by simply planting a tree in the center of every 
four. 

Quincunx System. (Fig. No. lo.) 

(For Siaiidard and Dtvarf trees, also for Standard, 
or Dwarf trees set by themselves.) 

The orchard is laid off in the same 
manner as for square planting, except 
that the number of rows is doubled. 
The standard trees are planted on the 
outside row, and the dwarf trees are 
planted in the center of every four 
standard trees (Fig. No. 9). If it is de- 
sired to increase the number of dwarf 
trees, then the outside row is planted 
with dwarf trees, and a standard tree 
is planted in the center of every four. 




e No. 10. 



60 



CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 



h k 



a a 



a.^ 



t_ S-. 'i. a_ a. SL a. '^ 
c 'a_ ^ ^ a_ -•a. ■*. ^- 

a. ^ € a. £L. a_ "SL^ 

il. iSL )^ '^ ^ iJL iL ^ 

Figure No. 1 1 . 

Table of Distance: 
o. 12 ft. X. lO ft. X. 12 ft. c 



Double Square System. 
(Figure No. 1 1.) 

Standard and Dwarf Trees. 
Standard trees J4 feet apart each way; D'warf 
trees 10 ft. and_ 12 ft. from the Standard trees. 

This system is somewhat new in 
this State, but is coming into favor, 
especially by those setting out seed- 
lings and varieties of home origin 
for Standard purposes. As the 
Standard trees do not come into 
bearing for several years. Dwarf 
trees are planted between, as they 
bear several crops before the other.? 
begin fruiting. They will also re- 
main small, and will not interfere 
with the Standard orchard trees. 



Another Square System. 
(Figure No. 12.) 

For Standard and Dioarf Trees. 

This is exactly the same as the 
square system, only that the rows are 
doubled, Dwarf trees being planted in 
between the Standards. 

Extending the Roots. 



L i i- ^ 1 
i'€ i t: 1 
i 1. i 1 1. 

Lt it 1 

L 1 i i_ t 

L 4 1 i. i 

1 1 i- 1 1 

i t it i 

1 L 1 4. 1 



It is a common practice among 
growers to place the tree in the hole, 
fill it up with soil, and then tramp it. 
As the roots are covered with thick 
mud they will stick together, and if Figure No. 12. 

the tree grows it will not do as well 

as when the roots are extended with care. This is very sim- 
ple. The hole is half filled with earth, so as to form a mound 
in the hole, the shovel handle is driven down in the center of 
the mound, and on being withdrawn a deep hole is left, suffi- 
ciently large and deep enough to admit the taproot of the tree, 
then the roots are spread over the mound (Figure No. 13), the 
soil is lightly pressed ; heavy tramping is not necessary, as the 



THE ORANGE 



61 




Figure No. 13. 

water settles the dirt and keeps the roots in place. Soon after 
the trees have been watered, and as soon as the water in 'the 
basin has disappeared, the basin is covered with loose soil; 
this will protect the tree from getting dry and also from lean- 
ing over. Trees planted with these precautions make the best 
growth and become the thriftiest. 

Pruning. 

When trees have been allowed to grow at will for several 
years before they are pruned, most of the inside brush will be 
found to be dead, and to remove it requires considerable work 
and skill, for if in removing a branch a hole is made that will 
allow the hot sun to enter, it will scorch the bark; the fine 
brush will also die, and diseased trees are sure to be the result. 
I have often read articles wherein the writers advocate, " that 
the trees be opened so as to allow plenty of air and sun-heat 
to enter." This advice comes from men having no practical 
knowledge ; men who are ever willing to tell, but who cannot 
do it themselves. I am sure that no one having an orchard, 
depending upon that alone for a livelihood, would ever follow 
or give such advice. It is not practical and should be disre- 
garded. 

Figure No. 14 is a good illustration of how a tree is left, or 
what remains of it, after the brush that protects the trunk and 
branches is removed. The trunk and inside growth is left 
exposed to the sun's heat. 



62 



CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 




Figure No. 14. 

I have often seen trees where the bark had been scorched 
and had dried on the south side of the tree, being the result 
of removing the brush that protected it. 

Figure No. 1 5 illustrates a high trained tree of the same age. 




Figure No. 15. 

In this the lower limbs have been removed, leaving a clear 
stock, so as to allow the horse in cultivating to pass under its 
branches, and the cultivator to work the ground close to the 
trunk. 



THE ORANGE. 



63 




Figure No. i6. 

Figure No. r6 illustrates a low trained tree of the same age 
as Nos. 14 and 15. In this the lower limbs have been allowed 
to remain to protect its trunk and inner growth. The inside of 
the tree is kept clear of all dead wood, and no limbs have been 
allowed to cross each other, as when two limbs cross each other, 
if one of them is not removed, both limbs will be cut in two by 
the friction caused by the wind. 



Advantage of Low Trained Trees. 

There are several points that should be taken into consider- 
ation, i. e.\ In summer the trees must be irrigated. If trained 
high the sun-heat will bake the ground under the trees before 
it can be worked; as the cultivator cannot run close to the trunk, 
it must therefore be worked by hand. When trees are trained 
low, the shade of the branches keeps the ground moist, and in 
case of the excessive heat, or scarcity of water through the 
summer, the trees will not suffer; whereas the heat causes the 
leaves of high trained trees to curl, and if not watered at the 
proper time, the growth of the fruit is checked. Low trained 
trees become better balanced, vigorous, healthy, and more pro- 
ductive than when trained high, also become straighter, and 
the fruit is much more easily and cheaply gathered. 



64 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Gum Disease. 

This disease is first detected close to the ground, and also 
upon the trunk of the tree, and also on the limbs. It is a yel- 
low gum which forms on the outside of the bark. It is an 
exudation of the sap of the tree which breaks through the 
bark and forms a gum. For several years various remedies 
were tried, but none proved effectual, for how could they; for 
the disease was not on the outside of the bark, as many did 
suppose, because they saw the gum running down the trunk. 
The disease is under the bark, and also will be found to have 
entered the inner bark, and in bad cases deep into the wood. 

Remedy. 

Cut away the bark surrounding the place from where the 
gum is oozing. When this is done, it can be detected where 
the main affected parts are. Then cut into the wood with a 
half-moon chisel or gouge, until all the parts from where the 
gum is oozing is removed ; then leave it stand for a couple of 
days ; then, if on examination it is found that the gum is still 
running, cut away more of the wood, until every particle of 
the disease is taken out. (Generally, if any is left, yellow 
streaks are seen in the grain of the wood, which are traces of 
it.) Then leave it alone for one or two days. If, on examina- 
tion the second day, no more gum is seen, or any trace of it 
whatever, then it is a sign that all of it has been taken out. 
The wound must then be covered with some substance, so as 
to not allow the action of the atmosphere from cracking the 
wood left exposed, as it may injure the tree. If the disease 
has gone clean around the tree, then it is too far gone, and 
there is no cure for it. In such cases it is better to remove the 
tree and place a healthy one in its place. 

Covering the Wound. 

The simplest of all substances is rubber paint, manufactured 
by the Pacific Rubber Paint Company, at San Francisco. At 
least two coats should be given it. This will prevent the 
wound from cracking, and help it to heal. 



THE ORANGE. 65 

Diseased Chips and Scrapings. 

They must be put into a can as soon as taken from the tree 
and burned. They shovild not be left on the ground, as in 
irrigating the water will take them to healthy trees, and as 
the substance is gummy, and as the germ of the disease is not 
dead, will stick to the bodies of healthy trees, and the germ 
will grow, and will cause serious trouble. 

The Cause of Gum Disease. 

Many claim that it is not a disease, but that it is only 
caused by too much irrigation and neglect of cultivation at 
the proper time. While this is partly true, it is a disease pro- 
duced not alone by excessive irrigation, but also by the tree 
being struck with the hoe in cultivating, or by the cultivator or 
plow. I have also seen the gum flow from the bark, caused 
by the hames of the harness of the horse rubbing in cultivat- 
ing; also where trees had been shot by hunters, and by being 
hit with rocks by boys while trying to knock oranges off the 
trees. Therefore it must be seen how much a tree needs to 
be protected by the cultivator as well as from intruders into 
the orchard, for often the gum oozes from having a limb 
broken by persons who, in picking an orange, care little for 
the tree as long as they get the orange upon it. Other dis- 
eases, such as Die Back, Rust, Root Rot, etc., are not 
known in California. 

Cutting the Tops of Gum Diseased Trees. 

Many have been led to believe that when badly diseased 
trees begin to show signs of decay that they can be restored 
to perfect health by simply removing all the limbs, to force 
them to make new growth. The trees, of course, put forth, and 
the new shoots will bear fruit until life still remains in the tree, 
for generally there are a few healthy roots that keep the trees 
alive. But such trees will never be of any value, and what 
fruit they will bear will be very coarse, and much inferior to 
that once borne by them. They generally remain green for 
a long time, but such trees cannot come to life again. 



66 



CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 



Bolting Split Limbs. 

When trees grow with hmbs forming a fork, they generally 
split in the center, caused by the heavy burden upon them. 
As soon as they are discovered, "that is, before they break 
down," they should be bolted together. (Figure No. 17.) If 
the limbs fall upon the ground they must be cut back consid- 
erably, to lessen their weight. They are then lifted up and a 




m 

Figure No. 17. 

bolt passed through them. A large washer should be placed 
at each end. The bark in time will grow over the bolt. In 
this way valuable trees are often saved. The bolt should be of 
galvanized iron or steel. Wrought iron should not be used, as 
it will corrode too fast, and may cause the loss of the tree. 



Fertilization. 

Mr. a. Scott Chapman, of San Gabriel, who has had 
perhaps more experience with fertilizers in this State than 
any other person, has this to say on the subject : 

Plants feed on the same elements, but in varying proportions. Among the most 
important may be mentioned phosphoric acid, potash, lime, magnesia, and nitrogen, 
which are found only in small available quantities in the soil, although they may 
exist in large quantities in an Unavailable condition. 

According to Professor Johnson, "from 95 to 99 per cent of the entire mass 
(weight) of agricultural plants is derived directly or indirectly from the atmosphere. 
And from the atmosphere the crop can derive no appreciable quantity of those 
elements that are found in the ash." 



THE ORANGE. 67 

To the soil, therefore, must we look for our supply of plant food, by rendering 
available the inert material, and when that quantity is too feeble to supply arti- 
ficially what it may be deficient in. 

The soils of Southern California are generally deficient in phosphates, a most 
necessary constituent of plant food, and generally the first to become exhausted. 
They are, as a general thing, rich in potash, and nitric acid, the conveyor of 
nitrogen to the plant, depends greatly on ourselves, nitrates being formed by the 
oxidation of ammonia in the soil, derived from the slow decay of organic matter in 
the soil, and proceeds most rapidly at a temperature of 70° to 80° F., which 
accounts for an abundance of acid in the summer, and a lack of same in early 
spring. The formation of nitrate of potash is a most interesting study to the 
farmer. Only within the past few years has it been discovered that the nitrate is 
formed through a fermentation produced by bacteria in the presence of humus, 
lime, and potash. 

The carbon of the plant is derived through the leaf from the carbonic acid of the 
atmosphere ; therefore may weeds become beneficial to the soil. By being matured 
and plowed under they keep the soil in a fine mechanical condition, retentive of 
moisture. They supply nitrogenous material for oxidation into nitric acid. They 
supply the water of the soil with carbonic acid, which has a "high solvent power 
on the carbonates of lime, magnesia, protoxide of iron, and protoxide of manganese. 
When carbonated water comes into contact with siliceous minerals they are decom- 
posed much more rapidly than by pure water." 

The general mode of fertilizing in this country seems to be principally tillage, 
with an occasional dressing of some manure once every two or three years, and 
copious irrigation. Now, it would seem that this constant irrigation with pure 
water, as it is in the San Gabriel Valley, would wash from the soil its soluble salts, 
not only depriving it of them, but to an extent leaching and making the soil less 
subject to hydroscopic water. And again, when thorough tillage is resorted to, to 
the exclusion of manure, it stimulates the soil beyond the powers of endurance, the 
vegetal)le mold is rapidly used up, the available phosphoric acid reverts to an insolu- 
ble condition, and the soil thus left in its primary condition is subject to bake and 
form hardpan. And again, where heavy manuring is resorted to, say once in 
three years, as is sometimes done here, then do parts of the plant food revert to an 
inert form, and the great quantity of organic matter becomes acid, and sours the 
soil unless it be an exceedingly calcareous one. 

On my father's place, at San Gabriel, we choose to manure lightly and often, by 
shoveling sheep manure into the irrigating ditches, allowing each tree to receive 
about twenty-five pounds at each sepai-ate irrigation. Our basins cover the entire 
surface of the ground. We make no effort to choke such weeds as clover, alfilerilla, 
and the like ; but the irrigator with his hoe destroys the obnoxious nightshade, 
hoarhound, and nettle. 

In the fall of the year we follow with a copious liming — about three barrels of 
unslacked lime to the acre — applied in the following manner at the head of our 
irrigating ditch : We plant a box about three feet wide, six feet long, two feet 
deep, and six inches under the surface of the running water. In it we place a 
barrel of the Hme. It slacks and swells to twice its original bulk. A man stands on 
this with his hoe, and sees that the water carries it off evenly. With an irrigating 
head such as we use a man will run into the ditch four barrels a day, or about 
three barrels to the acre. We now leave the orange orchard till spring, when we 



68 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

plow under weeds, manure, and lime. We thus aim to supply our soil with nitrate 
of lime, potash, and magnesia. Carbonic acid gas is absorbed by the water, and 
attacks the inert plant food in the soil. Hardpan is prevented, both by the 
mechanical effects of the vegetable matter and the lime. 

The present outlook for the crop in the southern part of this State is not large ; 
but the fruit is of larger size and better quality. But in those particular places 
which have been called to my notice, where they have fertilized, the crop is heavy. 
Peculiarly is it so in Riverside, where these people deal in corners in sheep manure 
and commercial fertilizers. The effect of the fertilizers on the Australian Navel in 
our orchard is very marked, for it generally happens that there are on this tree a 
great many oranges that do not develop the proper characteristic. This year the 
stamp of the fertilizer is plain. 

We have walnut trees on our j^lace at San Gabriel that we have not plowed for 
two years ; but we have thoroughly fertilized them, and never before did they bear 
as many and good a crop as this fall, and I may say the same of our lemons. And 
again, we have a particular plot of about five acres in our orchard where we have 
not allowed a weed to grow, cultivating after each irrigation ; but this orchard was 
fertilized with sheep manure at each irrigation, and limed last winter at the rate of 
ten barrels to the acre. These trees will average twelve feet in diameter and fifteen 
feet in height. They are literally covered with fruit, and will average six boxes to 
the tree. 



Uses to Which the Orange May be Put. 

Orange Wine. — Take one part orange juice, well strained; 
one part water; three pounds sugar per gallon. Any kind of 
sugar will do, and the darker the sugar the richer will be the 
color of the wine. For each ten gallons put up keep about one 
gallon of the same for refilling the casks during fermentation. 
Lay casks on the side, fill full, and leave bung open. Do not 
let it be exposed to much cold. Fill up the casks every day, 
from the quantity kept out, as the scum is thrown off, and 
watch closely until the wine passes through the stage of alco- 
holic fermentation. This will usually require from ten to 
twenty days, or longer if the weather is cool, and can easily 
be determined by scum ceasing to rise, and the cessation of 
brisk fermentation. When it arrives at this stage, place the 
bung in loosely. Watch closely for a few days, and as active 
fermentation ceases, put the bung in fast. Let it stand two 
months, then rack off carefully into clean casks. If perfectly 
clear, seal and let it stand six months, when it may be bottled. 
If not clear, it should be racked off a second time in two 
months after the first time, and sealed for six months before 
bottling. Be sure your casks are full, for contact with the air 



THE ORANGE. 69 

will cause the wine to pass into acetic fermentation. Consid- 
erable wine from oranges has been manufactured in Florida, 
and the demand for it has been very good at $5 per gallon. 
The wine continues to improve with age. 

Orange Custard is very nice made in the usual way, 
using the juice of one large orange to each pint of milk. 

Orange Icing is made by adding to the eggs and sugar 
the juice and grated rind of the orange. 

Orange Cake is made by adding the juice and grated rind 
to the other ingredients. Layer cake is made by beating eggs 
and sugar together, as for frosting, and adding the juice and 
grated rind of the orange, and spreading between the layers. 

Orange Pudding.— Four large oranges. Peel and cut 
into pieces. Add one cup of sugar, and let it stand. Take 
one cup of nearly boiling milk, and stir into it four tablespoon- 
fuls of corn starch, mixed with a little water and yolks of four 
eggs. When done let it cool, and then mix with the orange. 
Use the whites of two eggs with one cup of sugar for frosting. 
Spread over the top, and place it in oven until brown. 

Rich Orangeade.— Steep the yellow rinds of six sweet 
and two bitter-sweet oranges in a quart of boiling water; 
closely cover for four or five hours. Make a syrup with a 
pound of sugar and three pints of water. Mix the infusion 
and syrup together. Press in the juice of a dozen sweet 
oranges and two bitter-sweet, from which the rind has been 
taken. Stir thoroughly, and run through a jelly bag. Seal 
hot to keep for use. 

Orange Souffle. — Make a soft custard of one pint of 
milk and the yolks of five eggs. Take two large oranges. 
Grate the rind of one of them. Pare and slice them thin, and 
put with the grated rind in a dish. Pour the custard over 
them. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, sweeten them well, 
and flavor slightly with vanilla. Put this on top of the cus- 
tard, smoothing it over with a knife. Put the dish in a pan 
filled with hot water, and set in the oven to brown. 

Orange Marmalade. — To three pounds of oranges allow 
three pounds of sugar. Wash and brush the fruit. Put on 



70 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

the stove in boiling water, just sufficient to cover them, and 
boil until quite tender. Cut the fruit in halves. Scoop out 
the middle with a spoon. Pinch out the seed and white skin. 
Cut the rinds into chips. Take a pint of the first water the 
oranges were boiled in; add to it the sugar, chips, and pulp, 
and after it comes to a boil let it simmer until clear. To 
every dozen oranges add the juice of three lemons. 

Orange Jelly. — Take five oranges and one lemon. Take 
rind off two of the oranges and half of the lemon. Put them 
in a basin, after removing the pith, and squeeze the juice of 
the fruit into it. Then put four ounces of sugar into a stew- 
pan with half a pint of water. Add the juice and peel, and 
set the mixture on to boil. Then put in one and a half ounces 
of isinglass or gelatine and a gill of water. Let it boil for a 
few minutes, stirring it well, and pass it through a fine sieve 
or jelly bag into a mould. A few drops of cochineal may be 
added to give it an orange tint. This jelly does not require 
to look clear. 




PART II. 



VARIETIES. CURING, SHIPPING, BUDDING, ETC. 



CITRUS MEDICA LIMONIUM. 
CITRUS MEDICA LIMON FRUCTU CITRATO. 
CITRUS CITRATA SCABIOSA ET MONSTRUSOSA. 
CITRUS LIMONIA DULCIS. 




THE LEMON. 



CHAPTER XII. 

BEST VARIETIES TO PLANT, ETC. 



CLASS A. 

There is no fruit that has a more promising future in this 
State than the lemon. It is a tree that fruits well, blooms all 
the year round, and is ripening its fruit in every month of the 
year. The best varieties should only be planted — such as will 
undergo the curing process. 

A marketable lemon should not be large, but of medium 
size, sweet rind, and strong acid. 

The common seedling lemon does not pay to grow; its 
keeping qualities are very poor; if put to curing, as soon as 
it leaves the process will be found to be worthless, as almost 
every lemon will show signs of decay. Therefore it cannot be 
expected that lemons of inferior quality will pay their culture. 

The varieties described under this head are of foreign origin, 
and are recommended (excepting the sweet lemon) as being 
marketable, prolific bearers, good keepers, and such as the 
fruit growers should plant for profit. 

Lisbon. 

Imported from Portugal. Fruit is of medium size, fine 
grain, sweet rind, and very strong acid ; very few seeds. The 
fruit grows very uniform on the tree, a good keeper, and a 
prolific bearer. Lemons can be picked from the tree at any 
time of the year. 

The tree is a strong grower, and makes a larger tree than 
the other varieties described under this head. Is quite thorny, 
6 



74 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

but thorns decrease in size as the tree grows older. A very 
desirable variety. 

Villa Franca. 

Imported from Europe. Is of a medium size, considered 
to be the finest of all lemons grown. This lemon has fruited 
in Los Angeles for several years in the orchard of J. W. Wolf- 
skill. Fruit oblong, slightly pointed at the blossom end, rind 
thin, without any trace of bitterness, even when green, acid 
strong, juicy, nearly seedless. Tree thornless, branches spread- 
ing and somewhat drooping, foliage sufficiently abundant to 
prevent the fruit from scorching. This variety has the name 
of withstanding a lower temperature than other imported va- 
rieties. 

Genoa. 

Imported from Genoa by Don Jose Rubio, of Los Angeles. 
Medium size, oval, sweet rind, thornless, and nearly seedless. 
Tree is of a dwarf habit, a good keeper, one of the best. 

Asiatic. 

Imported by J. W. Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. Fruit me- 
dium size, oval, thin rind, without any trace of bitterness under 
the most careful tests. Tree and fruit resemble the Genoa, 
but a better acid, thornless. 

Sicily. 

This lemon was about the first cultivated in California. 
Since then many other varieties have been introduced which 
are far its superior. However, if put through the proper treat- 
ment will produce a good lemon. 

Sweet Lemon (Sweet Lime, Lima). 

This variety was cultivated by the early settlers; it must, 
therefore, have been introduced by them from the seed or cut- 
ting. The fruit is different from all other citrus fruits. It is 
not like an orange, resembling the lemon. General Vallejo 
says "that he remembers having eaten this fruit at Monterey 
in 1822, and that he saw trees that same year growing at the 
San Gabriel Mission." The fruit is very sweet, although the 
pulp is very coarse, is esteemed by many, especially for its 
sweet scent, but the demand for it is very limited. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

BEST VARIETIES OF CALIFORNIA ORIGIN. 



CLASS B. 

Eureka. 

A native of California, originated by C. R. Workman at 
Los Angeles, from seed imported from Hamburg in 1872, 
only one seed growing, from which buds were put by him on 
orange stock. Introduced to the public by T. A. Garey, o£ 
Los Angeles. Fruit medium size, sweet rind, a good keeper, 
considered by many to be the best, but the drawback it has is 
the leaves are inclined to curl, scarce foliage, fruit produced 
at extremities of branches and liable to get sunburnt; does 
better when grown on large seedling orange stock ; the tree is 

thornless. 

Agnes. 

Originated at National City by Mr. Frank A. Kimball. This 
lemon is of superior quality, medium size, sweet rind, pulp 
very fine, with strong acid and very few seeds ; thorns few, 
short and blunt, is a rapid grower, but drooping in character; 
medium dwarf. This lemon has fruited for six years with Mr. 
Kimball, and has proved itself to be a good keeper and a very 

desirable variety. 

Olivia. 

Originated by George C. Swan at San Diego. Fruit of 
medium size, and said to be of excellent quality; strong acid, 
and a good bearer; thorny. 

Garcelon's Knobby. 

Originated by G. W. Garcelon at Riverside. The fruit is of 
medium size; when cured very thin rind, juicy, and the tests 
have found it to contain more citric acid to its size than other 
lemons. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

MISCELLANEOUS VARIETIES. 

sl 

CLASS C. 

The varieties under this head are of no practical value, ren- 
dered so by the bitterness of the rind, and bitter acid. They 
should be discarded. 

California Sicily. 
This name has been given to the common Seedling Lemon. 

BOUTON. 

Originated by General Bouton, at Los Angeles. A vigor- 
ous grower; sweet rind, when cured, but tree very thorny; 
fruit full of seeds ; a poor keeper. 



Bonnie Brae. (Higgins Lemon.) 

Originated by H. M. Higgins, of San Diego. A vigorous 
grower; tree thorny. The foliage is different from any other 
lemon, resembling the foliage of the Chinese Lemon. Size 
medium ; rind thin, bitter. Fruit ribbed, somewhat like the 
Muskmelon. 



Sweet Rind. 



A California seedling. Fruit very large; tree very thorny; 
inferior. 



THE LEMON. 



77 



Chinese Lemon. 

This variety was extensively cultivated in California as a 
stock for budding the orange upon. This practice was soon 
abandoned, for it was found by practical experience that the 
fruit grown upon it was very coarse and sour, which rendered 
it unmarketable. The root begins to decay about the second 
or third year after the buds begin fruiting. The root is not 
strong enough to hold the weight of the top made by the 
orange bud, and, being brittle, the trees are blown down by 
the wind. The fruit is used for preserving purposes, similar 
to the citron. In California it has never come into favor- 
The tree is a dwarf It fruits all the year round. 









CHAPTER XV. 

VARIETIES GROWN IN FOREIGN COUNTRIES AND IN 

FLORIDA. 



CLASS D. 

The varieties under this class, marked with an asterisk (*), 
are grown in Florida, and are considered of great value there. 
The others on the list are grown in foreign countries; and it 
is not known if any of them have as yet been introduced 
either into Florida or California. 

* Ever-Bearing. 

Fruit large and coarse. Decreases in size as the tree grows 
older. 

* Lamb. 

Fruit medium. Strong acid. Said to be a good lemon. 

* Bijou. 

Claimed to be a remarkable lemon, ripening much earlier 
than others. 

* Variegated. 
The leaves are mottled with white. Very ornamental. 

* Napoleon. 

Said to be a good shipping lemon. Thin rind; oblong 
shape, of medium size. A prolific bearer. 



THE LEMON 79 

* August. 

Generally ripening in August. The tree is a rapid and 
vigorous grower. A good shipper. Has a smooth skin, and 
elongated in shape. 

* Bf:lair-Premium. 

This variety is considered to be one of the best. The tree 
is strong and thrifty. Fruit of a medium size, and without 
bitterness. 

* French's Seedling. 

This tree is a strong grower. Almost thornless. Fruit 
quite small. 

* Valentina. 

* Leghorn. 

* Neapolitana. 

* Makay (Florida origin). 

* Mij'anda (Florida origin). 

* Lenionia Trifoliata (dwarf, ornamental only). 

* Variegated (ornamental only). 

* Belair (Florida origin). 

* Liinoniuin Trifoliaticm (a hardy species of lemon, fruit the 

size of a lime; edible). 

* Malta. 

* Waring s Seedling (Florida origin). 
^ FrencJi or Florida (used for stock). 

Italy. 

Getioese (said to stand the longest transportation). 

Garden Lemon (inferior). 

Berganwt (cultivated for the essence only). 

Neapolitan (a greenish fruit, said to be good). 

Mela Rosa (a small ribbed lemon). 

Paradise (fruit very large, used for confectionery). 

Limonnm Tenno (too tender for transportation). 

Limonuin Oblongiini (considered very good, but coarse). 

Citrus Linio (valued for its medical virtues). 

Cuinin2tnis. 

Snacco. 



80 



CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 



Spain. 

Castilian (prolific). 
Royal (very large). 

Turkey. 
Canadian. 

Chio. 

Paros. 

Messina. 

Sweet Lemon (citrus lumia). 



Roman, 
Melaroce. 
St. Jerome. 



Morocco. 




CHAPTER XVI, 



Lemons. (From seed.) 

Lemons grown in California from seed generally produce 
poor fruit, with a bitter rind, and very poor keeping qualities. 

The fruit is generally very large, quite puffy rind, which 
destroys their commercial value. 

Lemon Stock. (From seed.) 

Lemon stock grown from seed make better trees than those 
propagated by cuttings. The roots are healthier; but as the 
lemon stock is subject to the deadly Gum disease it has 
been discarded, and is not recommended. About the time 
the trees come into bearing the roots will begin to show signs 
of disease. This trouble will continue until the tree dies or is 
removed. 

This Gum disease will appear sooner on trees planted on 
heavy or adobe soil, or on soil that requires irrigation in the 
summer. It is claimed by some that if the trees are planted 
on dry, sandy soil, or on sidehills, where there is considerable 
drainage, that the Gum will not make its appearance. That is 
partly true. The tree will be less subject to the disease; but 
I have seen. many trees on sandy, dry ground as badly affected 
with the Gum disease as those planted on heavy bottom land. 

From Cuttings. 

The lemon grows readily from the cutting. The cuttings 
can be planted in the spring and through *the summer. The 
smaller the cutting the better, but not too small, as in a very 
short time the wound made by the cut at the end of the cut- 



82 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ting will grow over, and make healthy roots, and produce a 
better tree than the large cuttings. 

What to Bud the Lemon On. 

' It has been claimed that if the lemon be budded on any- 
thing but lemon stock, that the lemons will lose their elon- 
gated shape, and that they will become roundish, especially if 
budded on the orange. 

I have often observed roundish lemons on trees budded on 
orange stock, but they are so few that it is hardly noticeable. 

One fact must be borne in mind, and that is that the orange 
is less susceptible to Gum disease, and that it is hardier, and 
more able to support the heavyweight of the fruit and foliage; 
and also, that lemons budded on orange stock never blow 
over; and another fact that cannot be contradicted is, that 
the quality of the lemon grown on orange stock cannot be 
surpassed. 




CHAPTER XVII. 

LEMON CURING, PACKING, ETC. 



Sizes to Pack. 

If possible pack only the following numbers in each box, 
which are the standard sizes, viz.: two hundred and fifty, three 
hundred, and three hundred and fifty. 

Shipping. 

After being neatly packed, and the covers carefully nailed 
on, they are ready for shipment, but in no case should the box 
be allowed to stand exposed to the sun for hours in the wagon 
in which they are hauled from the orchard to the cars or depot. 
The load should be covered with a thick canvas to protect 
the fruit from the sun's heat. While in transit, all these pre- 
cautions are very necessary, as much fruit is often ruined lying 
in the strong sunshine at the depot, or on board of the wagons, 
awaiting transit to cars. 

Lemon Curing. 

Clip (stem cut, do not pull) the lemons when fully grown 
and beginning to show a faint sign of golden color. If cut 
too soon, it will injure the flavor and reduce the amount of 
juice, which is the certain effect if picked before mature. 

Laying them on the Ground. 

As soon as clipped lay them on the ground under the tree, 
where not a ray of sunshine can fall upon them, as that would 
make them spotted. It is not necessary to put any covering 



84 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

over them unless the trees are pruned high. That would allow 
the sun to strike direct on them. In such a case it is well to 
place some loose straw over them. Let them lay on the 
ground a week or ten days, the weather permitting. They 
should not be handled until they have shriveled enough to 
allow handling. Then take them and on the floor of a close 
room pile the lemons in large heaps, and cover them with 
gunny sacks or blankets, shut the door, and let them remain 
forty-eight hours, then wipe them carefully, for they will be 
covered with moisture, and put them into boxes, filling them 
only half full, and pile the boxes one above the other in the 
room, and be careful not to let a current of air pass through 
the room ; the doors should be shut until the lemons are per- 
fectly dry, which will be in three or four days; then carefully 
size them, and leave out all imperfect fruit, as it injures the 
sale of the good fruit. Then wrap them in tissue paper, and 
pack them very tightly in boxes, marking number of lemons 
and brand on each box. In picking it is best to use baskets, 
and the fruit will not get pricked with the thorns. 

Another Process Recommended. 

Mr. A. Scott Chapman, of San Gabriel, has met with very 
good success in curing lemons. His process is very simple: 
The fruit is gathered green, just when turning to yellow, and of 
such a size that, allowing for shrinkage, will pack from two 
hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty in a box. The 
man gathering has his sack suspended across his shoulders, 
takes hold of the lemon with his left hand, and with his right 
clips the stem with a clipper close to the calyx of the fruit. 
In case he should drop one he is not allowed to pick it up, for 
that lemon is liable to rot. He carefully places them in his 
sack, and having half filled the same, places them one by one 
in a tray. The trays are placed one above another in the shade 
of the tree (the trays are six inches deep, filled four inches deep 
with lemons); there they are allowed to remain for one week, 
the weather permitting. They will then bear the jar of trans- 
porting them to the packing house. At the packing house the 
trays are placed one above another, about six trays high; a 



THE LEMON. 85 

layer of old newspapers is placed on the topmost trays, to keep 
the lemons therein from drying too fast and getting dusty. At 
the end of another week, if the weather has not been damp, 
they will be ready for packing, being yielding and leathery to 
the touch ; they will also have turned yellow. Then they are 
assorted into sizes and packed ; only those of the same size are 
packed in the boxes by themselves. 

Sulphuring the Lemon. 

Bleaching the lemon with sulphur fumes was extensively 
experimented with. It had been claimed that fruit treated in 
this way would keep an indefinite time, as the sulphurous gas 
■ would toughen the skin and dry up the watery particles, and 
that it would kill the fungoids on the fruit. Lemons treated 
in this way did not prove thus. As soon as they left the treat- 
ing rooms they were noticed to be spotted, and by the exces- 
sive use of sulphur some would be rendered white, while others 
would still retain part of their color on one side, while the 
other would be bleached to an unnatural color. This has been 
abandoned. 

Curing Common Seedlings. 

Three years ago a grower at San Gabriel, having an orchard 
of one hundred and fifty large Seedling trees, experimented 
for the purpose of testing their keeping qualities. He went 
about it in a practical way : The fruit was stem cut with great 
care, and laid carefully on straw under the trees away from the 
direct rays of the sun. When they had shriveled enough to 
allow handling, they were wiped dry and put into boxes, fill- 
ing them one half full, and put into the packing house. About 
three weeks after they were repacked, and all decayed lemons 
found therein (about 50 per cent) thrown away; nothing but 
apparently sound fruit was packed, and each one carefully 
wrapped in tissue paper. Out of about one hundred boxes 
picked, only fifty-two were shipped. They were shipped to 
San Francisco, being on the way four days. Upon arrival it 
was noticed that many were decaying. In order to be sold 
they had to compete with well-cured lemons, as the market was 



86 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

well supplied at the time. They had to remain in the ware- 
house, as buyers would not take them at any price. Only a 
few boxes were sold. The grower, after waiting patiently for 
his returns, was surprised on receiving a letter from the dealer, 
in which he was informed that he was indebted in the sum of 
75 cents balance for freight on the lot. 

Budding the Trees. 

After going through this sad experience, the grower asked 
my advice in the matter. I recommended that they should 
be budded into a good marketable variety. The question was 
then (the trees are very large — buds will not take in the old 
wood), how will you do it.' 

How It Was Done. 

In the early spring, as soon as the trees show signs of grow- 
ing, I cut the main branches (some as thick as six inches 
through), within two or three feet to the crutch of the tree — 
all lower also several other branches were allowed to grow. 
For if all the foliage of the tree is removed, the shock is so 
great that the tree seldom recovers its vigor. The trunk will 
sunburn, and in many instances the trees have been lost. 
Very soon after numerous shoots began to put forth at the 
end of every limb that was cut ; and when about four to six 
inches, only those intended to remain were left. All others 
were removed. When these .shoots had attained a large enough 
size the large branches which had been left were all removed, 
and the sap forced into the young shoots. The fine branches 
around the trunk, however, were allowed to remain, to prevent 
the hot sun through the summer from scorching the bark. 
The new shoots were then very strong and thrifty, many being 
two inches in diameter. In the fall they were budded with 
the Eureka lemon, and the buds allowed to remain dormant 
through the winter. In the following spring all this brush 
was removed, and all cuts made were covered with two coats 
of rubber paint. The dormant buds came out beautifully. 
Very few of the tops of the shoots were required to be re- 



THE LEMON. 87 

moved to start the buds. One half of the top of the shoot 
was only removed in order to force them. As soon as the 
bud was able to support itself the whole top of the shoots was 
removed to within about eight inches above the biid, and the 
buds that had started were tied to what remained of the shoot. 
The body of the tree was kept clear of all suckers or sprouts. 
At first the suckering was considerable, as in the warm weather, 
and after each irrigation, and as the buds were not able to take 
up the entire sap flowing up a large trunk, it caused the sprouts 
to come out all over the tree; but when the buds were large 
enough to shade the trunk this ceased. Those buds are now 
nearly three years old; are very large. Many lemons are now 
&n them, and the old worthless seedlings are no more, but in 
their stead a beautiful and thrifty Eureka lemon orchard. 

Uses to Which Lemons May be Put. 

Lemon Biscuit. — One and one half cups of sugar, one cup 
of butter, four eggs, one and one half pints of flour, one tea- 
spoonful of extract of lemon. Mix the butter, sugar, and 
beaten eggs together, add the flour sifted with two teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder; flour the board, and roll out the dough 
one fourth of an inch thick; cut out and lay on a greased tin; 
wash over with milk, and lay a thin slice of citron on each. 
Bake in a hot oven ten minutes. 

Lemon Creams. — Pare two lemons thin, pour over one half 
pint of boiling water, and let stand all night. Squeeze the 
juice of the lemons on one half pound of sugar next morn- 
ing ; beat three eggs well ; take out the peel, and mix the 
water with other ingredients; strain through a sieve; then stir 
over a brisk fire till thick as cream ; pour hot in the glasses. 

Lemon Cake. — One cup fresh butter, three cups pulverized 
sugar; rub to a cream; stir in the yolks of five eggs well 
beaten, one cup sweet milk, one teaspoonful soda, juice and 
grated peel of a fresh lemon, the whites of five eggs, four cups 
sifted flour, one teaspoonful cream tartar. Bake in round or 
square pans with straight sides. 



88 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Lemon Pie. — One teacup of boiling water, two tablespoon- 
fuls of cornstarch, cooking until a thick paste ; add one cup of 
sugar, piece of butter the size of an &^%, and set to cool; stir 
together the yolks of two eggs and the grated rind and juice of 
one lemon; mix all together; bake quickly; frost when done. 

Lemon Drops. — Dissolve half a pound pulverized sugar in 
lemon juice and boil to a thin syrup. Drop on plates and 
harden in a warm place. 

Preserved Lemon Peel. — Make a thick syrup of white 
sugar; chop the lemon peel fine, and boil it in the syrup ten 
minutes; put in glass tumblers and paste paper over. A tea- 
spoonful of this makes a loaf of cake or dish of sauce very 
nice. 




PART III. 



VARIETIES HABITS, STOCK ETC. 



CITRUS MEDICA LIMETTA. 




THE LIME. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



Lime Culture. 

The culture of the Hme has not been a success in CaHfor- 
nia, as it is the most tender and more susceptible to frosts 
than any other tree of the citrus family. It can only be grown 
successfully in warm belts and sheltered localities. The culti- 
vation of the tree is very simple. The plants are raised from 
seed without any difficulty. It comes true from seed ; only in 
exceptional cases does the seed "sport." 

It has been asserted that the orange budded on lime stock 
becomes hardier, and that in this way they escape all pests. 
This is not true. Scale and other pests infest the lime as well 
as other citrus trees, and for this and other reasons lime grow- 
ing in California is rendered unprofitable. 

Lime Stock. 

Lime stock has been used considerably for budding the 
orange upon. The fruit produced on the lime stock is coarse 
and large, and for this reason it has been entirely discarded as 
a stock for the orange. 

Imperial. 

Imported by J. W. Wolfskill, of Los Angeles. This variety 
is the largest of all limes. The fruit is the size of the Genoa 
lemon. 

The planting of this variety should be encouraged, as it is 
quite as hardy as the lemon ; can, therefore, be planted where 



THE LIME 91 

the Mexican lime would be sure to fail. The tree is very pro- 
ductive, fruits all the year round, and is less thorny than the 
Mexican lime. 

I am convinced that this variety is a most valuable acquisi- 
tion, because of its healthfulness, and its fruit of superior 
quality; that it will prove profitable to those who will propa- 
gate it. 

Mexican. 

This variety is principally grown in California. It is a 
choice lime, equal to the imported Mexican. The tree is much 
used for hedges, for which purpose it is well adapted. 

Tahiti. 

A much stronger grower, and fruit much larger than the 
Mexican, but coarse and of inferior quality. 

Other Varieties. 

Jeivish Lime, imported (a small conical fruit). 
Genoese Lime (very large, like a lemon). 
Florentine (a hybrid, grown in Florida). 
JMoster Lime (fruit very large, like a lemon). 
Salo Lime (a small round fruit). 
Persian Lime (like Tahiti inferior). 
Citronella Lime (very coarse, thick rind). 
Florida Seedling (nearly as large as a lemon ; quite coarse). 

* Valentine. 

* Knatta. 

* Kaghasin. 

* Sonr Tnranj. 

* Sour Rangpiir. 

* Sonr Jamberi. 

* Sadaphal. 

* Imported into Florida, and now commencing to fruit in that State. 



PART IV. 



HOW TO PREPARE, PROPAGATION, ETC. 



CITRUS MEDICA CIDRA. 




THE CITRON 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Citron Culture. 

The citron has only been grown in Cahfornia to a Hmited 
extent, the demand for it being very limited. It is only for its 
thick rind that the citron is valued. The candied citron in our 
markets is imported. The fruit raised in this State can be as 
well cured as the foreign grown. Those that have tried the 
experiment have produced a better and finer article than the 
imported. 

Lemon, or Sorrento (Citron of Commerce). 

Shape oblong like the lemon, with a very pleasant aroma, 
which is much esteemed ; skin bright yellow, smooth and very 
glossy; inner skin white, coarse, and thick, with very little 
trace of bitterness. The fruit grows very large, weighing from 
three to five pounds each. The tree is of a dwarf habit, with 
large glossy leaves, and very ornamental. It grows from the 
cutting, and is also budded on orange, lime, and lemon stock. 
It comes true from seed. 



How to Prepare Citron. 

The fruit, when bright yellow, is picked and placed in bar- 
rels filled with brine, and left for at least a month. The brine 
is renewed several times, and the fruit allowed to remain in it 
until required for use, often for a period of four or five months. 



THE CITRON. 95 

When the citrons are to be candied they are taken from the 
barrels and boiled in fresh water to soften them. They are 
then cut into pieces, the seed is removed, and the fruit is again 
immersed in cold water, soon becoming of a greenish color. 
After this it is placed in large earthen jars, covered with hot 
syrup, and allowed to stand about three weeks. During this 
time the strength of the syrup is gradually increased. The 
fruit is then put into boilers with crystallized sugar dissolved 
in a little water, and cooked ; then allowed to cool, and boiled 
again until it will take up no more sugar. It is then dried 
and packed in wooden boxes. 

Citron Cake. — Three cups of sugar, one of butter, one of 
sweet milk, four cups of flour, one half teaspoonful of soda, 
and one of cream of tartar. Cut up o'ne half pound of citron 
fine and thin, and the whites of ten eggs; cream the butter 
and sugar; sift the flour and add gradually, then the citron; 
beat the eggs until stiff and add last; sift the cream of tartar 
in the flour, and dissolve the soda in a little tepid water; beat 
all thoroughly before stirring in the eggs. 

Books Recommended. 

I have tried in every way to give all the information on the 
subject within my power, not theoretically, but practically, as 
I understand it, from experience obtained in the field. 

Whatever I may have omitted may be found in the follow- 
ing works: 

Orange Culture in California, by T. A. Garey. 

The Orange in California, by William A. Spalding. ■ 

Hand Book of Orange Culture, by Rev. T. W. Moore. 

A Treatise on the Culture of the Orange, by George W. 
Davis. 

Orange Culture in New Zealand, by George E. Alderton. 

Florida Fruits — How to Raise Them, by Helen Harcourt. 

A Treatise on the Citrus Family, by George Gallesio. 

Consular Reports. (Fruit culture in the several countries.) 

Bulletin No. 41)^ of the Department of Agriculture, June, 
1884. 



96 CITRUS CULTURE IN CALIFORNIA. 

A Revision. 

I hope to revise this edition at an early date. In the mean- 
time I would be glad to be informed of any error or omission 
that unintentionally I may have made. 

Conclusion. 

I regret exceedingly that I have not been able to visit the 
citrus orchards that in recent years have been planted in the 
northern and central part of the State. 

I had the pleasure, however, of viewing (last year and this 
year) two exhibits from that section that were exceedingly 
fine. The fruit was large and bright, and entirely free from 
smut, but not ripe, as in December there are no ripe oranges in 
this State; but being highly colored, they reminded me of 
about fifteen or twenty years ago, when we gathered such fruit 
from our trees in Los Angeles, which was in those days sold 
to dealers at from $30 to $50 per thousand. 

Such a thing as an orange box was then unknown to us. 
The fruit was gathered and piled into heaps ; from these heaps 
they were counted and packed into whatever boxes the deal- 
ers could obtain. The fruit was very bright and large. Grow- 
ers desiring to improve the quality of their fruits imported 
foreign varieties, and in so doing introduced many insect pests 
that were unknown to us, and which soon found a home in our 
groves. They were left to increase, as we did not know what 
they were, and their presence was only felt when our trees no 
longer produced the fine and large bright fruit once borne by 
them. 

The utmost care should be exercised in taking nursery stock 
from infested localities to places not infested. To be safe no 
man should ever take a tree to his home except it be from dis- 
tricts entirely free from all insect pests. 

If my investigations, and the task that I imposed upon my- 
self in the preparation of these chapters, shall aid the progress 
of horticulture in this State, I am happy and satisfied. 



